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Disclaimer: I get a commission for purchases made through some of the links in this post. Can You Reuse Coffee Grounds? Yes! Coffee is definitely grounds for sustainability. Coffee is (obviously) one of the most popular drinks on the planet, with an estimated 3.3 billion pounds of java consumed in the United States alone last year . But beyond being a beloved beverage, coffee leads a double life as a versatile resource just waiting to be repurposed.  Not only are those used grounds a nitrogen-rich organic material, making them a fantastic addition to your compost bin, but they also have a gritty texture that makes them an excellent cleaning agent. Coffee grounds are a natural exfoliant, too, ideal for skin scrubs. They can even absorb odors, making them a secret weapon against funky fridge smells or even your housemate's aromatic shoes (not yours, of course).  With all these uses and more, it’s pretty obvious that spent coffee grounds are a valuable resource that should never go to waste. How to Reuse Leftover Coffee Grounds Here are some suggestions and how-tos: Compost Coffee Grounds Spent coffee grounds are rich in nitrogen and all kinds of beneficial trace nutrients, making them an excellent addition to your compost pile.  Garden with Coffee Grounds Some say spent coffee grounds are highly acidic and will therefore turn soil acidic, too. This simply isn't true. Once water has been run through the grounds, almost all the acidity is g one. So coffee grounds can indeed be used in moderation to fertilize both house and garden plants, as can the leftover brewed coffee remaining in your pot. Here’s how . Create Heat and Ambiance with Used Coffee Grounds Mixed with a binder like sawdust, newspaper, or other leftovers, coffee grounds can be used to make aromatic fire logs. Here’s how. Clean with Coffee The gritty texture of coffee grounds makes them an excellent cleaning agent for taking on grime in your kitchen or bathroom. Here’s how . Make Coffee Ground Skincare Coffee grounds are a natural exfoliant, so they make a great ingredient for skin scrubs. They can also be used to make a gardener’s soap. Here’s how . Here's a handmade coffee facial scrub made with Arabica ground coffee, coconut sugar, raw coconut oil, vitamin E, jojoba oil, apricot kernel oil, aloe vera oil, and lavender and tea tree essential oils. Deodorize with Spent Coffee Coffee grounds can absorb odors, making them a viable alternative to baking soda or foot powder. Put some used grounds in a bowl or other open container and place them in your fridge to counter those funky, spoiled-food smells. You can also fill socks or fine mesh bags and put leftover grounds in odor-prone places like shoes, gym bags, etc. Reuse Coffee in the Kitchen Coffee grounds can be used as a spice rub for meats or a flavor enhancer in baked goods. Here’s how . Do Some Dyeing with Coffee Coffee grounds can be used to dye fabric or paper. Here’s how . Here's an example of pretty coffee-dyed paper in a variety of lace patterns. You can also use up some leftover wood ash to prep the fabric before you dye it. Make Coffee Ground Candles Coffee grounds can be used to make candles with a unique scent. Here’s how  (video). Create Coffee Art Coffee grounds can even be part of creative works of art. I know, sounds strange, but here’s how . Repel Insects with Used Coffee Coffee grounds can repel ants, snails, and slugs. Here’s how . Reuse Coffee Grounds for Pet Care Apparently, finicky fleas hate coffee, so you can use spent grounds to repel those biting buggers and deodorize pet bedding, too. After bathing your pup, rub a cup or two of wet grounds into their fur, then rinse well. That said, only use coffee grounds externally; they can be very toxic to dogs if ingested.  Wait! Don't Toss That Leftover Grind With all these ways to reuse leftover coffee grounds, I think it’s pretty clear they’re a valuable resource that should never go to waste. Whether you’re composting and gardening like we are, cleaning, or creating art, there’s no limit to what you can do with a spent grind. So, the next time you brew a pot of java, don’t toss those grounds in the trash! Harness their potential and transform the leftovers into all things useful. Reusing Coffee Grounds FAQs Can used coffee grounds be added to compost? Yes, spent coffee grounds are rich in nitrogen and beneficial trace nutrients, making them an excellent addition to your compost pile. Do coffee grounds make soil acidic? No, once water has been run through the coffee grounds, most of the acidity is gone. Coffee grounds can be used in moderation to fertilize both house and garden plants. How can coffee grounds be used as a cleaning agent? The gritty texture of coffee grounds makes them an excellent cleaning agent for tackling grime in your kitchen or bathroom. Can coffee grounds help with odor control? Yes, coffee grounds can absorb odors. Place them in a bowl in your fridge or use them in socks or fine mesh bags in odor-prone areas like shoes and gym bags. Are coffee grounds safe to use on pets? Coffee grounds can be used externally on pets to repel fleas and deodorize pet bedding. However, they should never be ingested by pets, as they can be toxic if consumed.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Don't Trash That Wood Ash! It’s that time of year again here at 36-Acre Wood — and countless other homes where the mercury has dropped and winter coats have come out of storage: Time to clean the flue and put fireplaces, wood stoves, and other wood burners back to work. But after the flames have gone out, what is there to do with all that fine, cold wood ash you’ve collected?    Today, we’ll unlock the potential of those powdery fireplace remnants. Our list will transcend the traditional and tap into the versatile wonders of wood ash, some of which we’ve tried, others we will, and some… well, we’ll see. So join us as we discover a trove of practical and innovative applications for this wood-burning byproduct. From enriching garden soil to crafting homemade cleaning solutions, we're about to transform our perspective on post-fire cleanup — and maybe yours, too. Note: We strongly recommend using ash only from untreated, chemical-free wood for any of these applications. Ways to Use Wood Ash In and Around the House From de-icing to cleaning to repelling pests and more, wood ash has many properties that make it a useful and cost-effective alternative to commercial products. Here are some suggestions: 1. De-ice walkways, driveways, and sidewalks If you live in an area that gets cold and slippery, as we do, you can use some of that leftover ash to melt the ice. Simply sprinkle it on lightly, and you have a natural solution that can be swept off later. As with any type of ice melt, you’ll want to avoid tracking it into the house, but at least with wood ash, it’ll be a non-toxic mess. 2. Repel pests It’s said that wood ash draws the water out of the bodies of bugs, which can’t be a good thing (for them). For this reason, though, it can be used to keep pests like slugs and snails at bay. Sprinkle wood ash around the perimeter of your home as a natural pest repellent. 3. Clean stove glass If you have a wood-burning stove, you can — somewhat ironically — use wood ash to clean the glass. Just dip a damp cloth in the ash and use it to scrub the glass. Rinse with water and dry with a clean cloth (because a dirty one would defeat the purpose, right?). 4. Wash dishes and polish silverware  Wood ash can be used to polish silver and clean dishes. Mix it with a little water to make a paste, and scrub away. 5. Remove stains and odors Wood ash can be used to remove funky smells and stains from your home. Simply sprinkle it on the affected area and let it sit for a few hours. Then vacuum it up or wipe it away with a damp cloth. Like you’d use baking soda, you can put some wood ash in an open jar and place it in the fridge to absorb odor. Even better if there are still some little pieces of charcoal mixed in with it. 6. Clean the toilet You can also use wood ash to clean the toilet bowl, other bathroom fixtures, and tile too. And if you’re on septic, as we are, wood ash won’t kill the natural flora like bleach-based antibacterial cleaning products can. In fact, wood ash actually promotes the breakdown of waste, which is why it reduces odor and is also useful for adding to camp toilets.   7. Get rid of fleas If your kids — of the furry kind, that is — have fleas, you can use wood ash to get rid of them, just like you would use diatomaceous earth. Rub the ash into your pet’s fur and let it sit for a few minutes. Then, brush it out with a flea comb.  Speaking of pets and wood ash, we’re also told (though haven’t tested the claim) that ash can help remove skunk odor, too.  Ways to Use Wood Ashes in the Garden and Yard Wood ash is a natural and cost-effective way to improve the health of your garden and soil. It contains significant amounts of potassium, calcium, and magnesium, which are essential nutrients for plant growth. In this section, we’ll look at how wood ash can be used to fertilize plants, amend soil, and add to compost, which is where most of our own leftover ash goes. 8. Correct acidic soil Wood ash can be used to amend acidic soil. If the pH of your soil is too low, it can be difficult for plants to grow. Simply sprinkle some of that alkaline wood ash on the soil and mix it in. Here ’s some good information from the University of Vermont on using wood ash in the garden . They recommend no more than 20 pounds, or about a 5-gallon bucket’s worth, of ash per 1,000 square feet of garden.  9. Boost your lawn Wood ash contains potassium, which is an important nutrient for grass, so it can be used to give your lawn (if you have one) a good pick-me-up. Just sprinkle wood ash on the grass and water it in. 10. Add it to your compost Wood ash can be added to your compost pile to help it break down faster. It also helps to neutralize odors. That said, don’t overdo it. Adding too much ash to your compost pile or bin can raise the pH level and make the compost too alkaline, which can harm the beneficial microbes that break down organic matter.  The rule of thumb we follow is to add a thin layer of wood ash for every six inches of other compost material. 11. Control garden pests In addition to companion planting ( Carrots Love Tomatoes  is a great guide on the subject), wood ash can be used to help control garden pests. Sprinkle it around the perimeter of your garden and in a ring around the base of plants to keep pests like slugs and snails away. 12. Fertilize plants Wood ash can be used as a fertilizer. It contains potassium, calcium, and magnesium, which are all important nutrients. As when using it for pest control, simply sprinkle wood ash around the base of your plants and water it in. We’d avoid using it around plants that prefer acidic soil, though, like potatoes and blueberries. Here are some examples of plants that would be okay to use wood ash around but still use it sparingly: Tomatoes Peppers Eggplants Broccoli Cauliflower Cabbage Brussels sprouts Kale Lettuce Spinach 13. Prevent calcium deficiency in tomatoes Like eggshells and bone meal add calcium, so too can wood ash. Put about ¼ cup of ash in each planting hole and mix it into the soil when setting out your tomato seedlings. 14. Help chickens and other poultry rid themselves of parasites If you’ve got some egg-layers around the homestead, add some wood ash to their dust bath to help them keep unwanted fleas, avian lice, and other insects at bay. And since wood ash contains calcium and potassium, it’s fine if chickens and other poultry eat some of it, too. Primitive and Traditional Ways To Use Wood Ash Wood ash has been used for centuries in traditional, primitive, and survival situations for a variety of purposes. Its high alkalinity and ability to draw out moisture make it a versatile and valuable resource. These are just a handful of ways wood ash has been used in the past and still by some in the present: 15. Make soap Wood ash contains lye, which is an important ingredient in soap making. Note that soap made from wood ash tends to be more like a thick liquid soap than bar soap. Here’s a good video on making basic wood ash lye soap. Note that the type of wood ash you use can affect the quality of the lye and, therefore, the soap you make. Hardwood ash contains a higher concentration of potassium carbonate, which is the main component of lye-making, than ash from softwoods.   16. Tan hides Wood ash can be used to tan animal hides. The lye is an important ingredient in the tanning process. 17. Make lye Wood ash can be used to make lye, which is what you’ll do if using it to make soap or tan hides, among other uses. Mix the ash with water and strain out the liquid. As noted above, hardwoods contain more potassium than softwoods, so they’re better for making lye. 18. Make toothpaste Haven’t tried this one ourselves, but “they say” wood ash can be used as a toothpaste. Strain it through a sieve, like a tea strainer. Mix it with a little bit of water to make a paste, and use it to brush your teeth. Here’s a guy who’s done it.   19. Use as an antacid This is another one we haven’t tried (and would want to learn more about before we did), but since wood ash is alkaline, like baking soda, it can be mixed with water and ingested to help relieve heartburn. 20. Make a traditional cement A wood ash cement can be made by mixing it with terra cotta. Here’s how: Ways To Use Wood Ash for Cooking Wood ash is a versatile and ancient ingredient that has been used in cooking for centuries. It’s often used in traditional corn-based dishes and a variety of other recipes, including these: 21. Make hominy Wood ash can be used to make hominy , which is a traditional Native American dish made from dried corn kernels that have been soaked in lye made from wood ash. This helps to render the corn, making certain B vitamins bio-available, which can prevent nutritional deficiencies. 22. Use for cornbread and other recipes Wood ash can be used in making cornbread, tortillas, and more. The ash is used for nixtamalization, which is the process of cooking corn in an alkaline substance, usually hardwood ash or lime, to remove the seed husk of the unpalatable kernel. Here’s a great article with corn nixtamalization recipes . Ways To Use Wood Ash Topically 23. Clean Wounds With its antiseptic properties, wood ash has a history of application in wound care, and research   in dicates that it accelerates the healing process. 24. Treat insect stings and bug bites In some countries, wood ash is often made into a paste and applied to insect stings, bites, and other skin irritations to alleviate the itch and draw out toxins.  Ways To Use Wood Ash for Arts & Craft 25. Make pottery glazes Ash from wood and other organic vegetation has been used to create pottery glazes for over two millennia. The incorporation of wood ash in glazes is deeply entrenched in the ceramic traditions of Asia and has been extensively documented in various publications focused on glaze techniques. Here’s a great article with more information, instructions, and examples of using wood ash in glazes . 26. Prepare fabric for dyeing Wood ash can be used instead of sodium carbonate or washing soda as a pre-treatment to scour fabric, making it more receptive to the dye. Scouring is basically boiling the fabric in (in this case) wood ash water before dyeing it, which makes the color brighter and cleaner looking. Don’t Let That Wood Ash Go To Waste The versatile applications of wood ash extend well beyond the garden and compost pile. From home and garden to culinary delights, skincare, art, and many primitive uses, the potential of this byproduct is quite extensive. As we've explored its myriad uses, it's evident that "Don't Trash That Ash" isn't just a slogan but a call to unlock the full potential of this resource. For any surplus ash that doesn't have a current practical application around your own home, you can store it in a designated metal container, like an old 55-gallon drum, for future use or let it integrate naturally into compost. Embrace the wisdom of repurposing, and let your wood ash continue to enrich your surroundings in sustainable ways. Have you tried any of the above ways of using and repurposing wood ash? Or what about others that aren’t on our list? Please share your experience and suggestions in the comments below.  Using Wood Ash FAQs Can wood ash be used to de-ice walkways and driveways? Yes, wood ash can be sprinkled on walkways, driveways, and sidewalks to melt ice. It is a natural, non-toxic solution that can be swept off later, similar to other ice-melting products. Is wood ash effective for pest control in the garden? Yes, wood ash can be used to repel pests such as slugs and snails. Sprinkling it around the perimeter of your garden and at the base of plants can help keep these pests away. How can wood ash be used to fertilize plants? Wood ash is rich in potassium, calcium, and magnesium, which are essential nutrients for plant growth. It can be sprinkled around the base of plants and watered in to act as a fertilizer. However, it should be used sparingly and avoided around plants that prefer acidic soil. What are some traditional uses of wood ash in cooking? Wood ash can be used to make hominy, a traditional Native American dish, and in the nixtamalization process for making cornbread and tortillas. This process involves cooking corn in an alkaline substance, like hardwood ash, to remove the seed husk. Can wood ash be used for cleaning purposes? Yes, wood ash can be used for various cleaning purposes. It can clean stove glass, polish silverware, and even clean dishes. Mixed with water to form a paste, wood ash can scrub away grime and stains. How does wood ash affect soil pH levels? Wood ash is alkaline and can be used to raise the pH of acidic soil. This helps to balance the soil pH, making it more suitable for a variety of plants. However, it should be applied in moderation to avoid making the soil too alkaline. Does wood ash have any antiseptic properties? Yes, wood ash has antiseptic properties. It has been used traditionally to clean wounds and treat insect stings and bug bites. When made into a paste and applied to the skin, wood ash can help alleviate itching and draw out toxins.

Disclaimer: I get a commission for purchases made through some of the links in this post. One of the first projects we wanted to tackle after our passive solar house was finished was building an outdoor cob oven. I’d built one by the seat of my pants two decades earlier when I was living in Pennsylvania and recently heard that that oven is still turning out homebaked bread and pizza for its new owners. So, I wanted to do it again here at my forever home with Jeremy, my forever human, to enjoy homemade cob-oven-baked goodies for ourselves, family, and friends for the rest of our days. An ancient building material composed of clay subsoil, sand, and straw in varying proportions, cob can last hundreds and even thousands of years. This sustainable material has been used all over the globe, including for building those quaint thatched-roof cottages you see in Thomas Kinkaid paintings. A fire- and earthquake-resistant material, cob has also been used to build modern homes, benches, garden walls, and — you guessed it — ovens.  Building a cob oven is a great DIY project because it’s relatively easy and forgiving in a non-technical way. It's also inexpensive, eco-friendly, and, once finished, fun to use (cob oven baking parties are fun, too). You can also get creative and customize the shape and size of your oven to suit your needs, preferences, and imagination. One thing's for sure, as you'll see from our photos, a cob oven doesn't have to look picture-perfect to work well and last a very long time. In this guide to building your own backyard cob oven, I’ll share the step-by-step basics we followed, along with some additional resources if you want to delve deeper into the details of making, building, and cooking with cob. I’ll also share some info on how to make your cob creation last for decades and then some to come.  An Overview: Steps to Building a Cob Oven To give you a general idea of what you’re getting into with this project, here are the basic steps and links to jump ahead to each one below: Choose the right location for your oven, considering convenience, safety, drainage, and shelter.  Prepare the site by clearing the area, leveling the ground, and laying down a layer of sand or gravel. Figure out the size of your oven , including the outer perimeter of the dome and the doorway, so you know how big to build your base. Build the base for your oven , which you can do in a variety of ways, and fill the inside with gravel, rocks, or other materials. Add an optional insulating layer of glass bottles within the base and cap off the base with sand. Lay fire bricks on the sand bed to form the floor of the oven , and draw a circle on the floor to mark the diameter of the oven cavity. Build an archway to form the door of the oven. Build a dome form (a mold) on top of the circle to create that oven cavity. One way to do this is by using wet sand and packing it tightly, then covering it with plastic.  Cover the dome and doorway arch with a thermal layer composed of clay and sand approximately three to four inches thick. If desired, add a flue (chimney) to your oven. Add an insulating cob layer about six inches thick to retain the heat inside the oven. Cure and finish the cob . Remove the dome form via the doorway, build a small fire to cure the interior, let the cob walls fully dry, and then cover the insulation layer with lime plaster to protect the cob from the weather and add strength. Cob Oven Tools and Materials List You may find you need or want to try other tools and materials as you go, but here's a list of the basics to have on hand: Clay subsoil — Soil that's 15–25% clay is great. We used leftover soil from the excavation of our foundation Sand — Course sand with varying particle sizes is best for cob-making. Concrete sand is a good option if you'll need to buy it, while masonry sand is a bit too fine. Straw — You'll want a straw that's still pliable, not too dry and brittle. We used pine straw because it's plentiful around here and free. Brown fallen needles that are still fresh enough to have some bend to them are great for cob. A level Gravel for beneath the oven base Base materials, such as stones, bricks, or blocks, and mortar if applicable — We used ICF block leftovers from our house construction Mortar-mixing tools and a trowel Base fill material — Depending on how you decide to build a base for your oven, this could be rock, gravel, cinder, sand, etc Glass bottles for an optional insulation layer beneath the oven Soil sifting screen Buckets Water for mixing cob Measuring tape or yardstick A beam compass or other method of measuring and drawing a circle, like a string with a pin and chalk Fire bricks — How many depends on the size of the oven you decide to build. Scrap wood or other materials for making a doorway form Mold-making materials for the dome — This could be (wet) sand, newspaper, plastic, etc., depending on how you want to make the form. Tarp (s) Bricks and mortar for an arched doorway A fork or other implement to score the cob (even a stick will do) Step 1: Choose a Location for Your Cob Oven Unless you build your oven on a cart, it is where it will forever be once you build it. So choosing a site is worth some thought. Here are some things to consider when choosing a permanent location for your cob oven: Convenience and attractiveness : You want to choose a spot that’s easy to access and also fits well with your landscape—not to mention that cob ovens look really cool, so you’ll want yours to be seen. Safety : Avoid areas that are prone to flooding, and if possible, choose a location that’s protected from strong winds. You may also need to check for any buried plumbing or electrical wiring that could interfere with your build. It’s best to surround your oven with non-flammable materials like sand, gravel, or stone in case of any sparks (although the risk of that with a cob oven is minimal). Shelter : Choose a spot where you can protect your oven from rain and snow, as moisture can damage the cob and reduce its lifespan. If you don’t already have a shelter, you may want to build a lean-to or gazebo type of structure for the oven.  If you do want to build your cob oven in a mobile way, here's a great video of such a project. Step 2: Prepare the Site Depending on the location you’ve chosen, this might not take much.  Choose or create a flat and level spot for your oven base. You can use a spirit level  to check the evenness of the ground. Clear any branches or other potentially flammable items and, of course, anything that will be in the way of your oven and any structure you may build over and around it.  Step 3: Figure Out the Size of Your Cob Oven Cob ovens can be built in a range of sizes, so you’ll need to decide what you want to fit in yours, including through the doorway. Also, think about how much you want to be able to bake at one time: one pizza or two; one loaf of bread or casserole or four; a dozen cookies or three dozen. You get the idea. The smallest cob oven interior size that I’ve heard of has a 16” floor diameter. Any smaller, and you probably wouldn’t have good heating or a large enough cooking surface. Though some rules of cob-making can be broken, here are some general rules of thumb for sizing cob ovens: Use a cob oven ratio : The interior ceiling height should be around 75% of the interior oven floor’s diameter, and the door height should be about 63% of the ceiling height. For example, if you want to build an oven with a finished interior floor diameter of 36 inches, the ideal ceiling height would be 27 inches, and the door opening would be 17 inches tall. Why, you ask? These proportions help ensure the oven heats evenly and maintains its temperature effectively, which is essential for cooking and baking .  Building with this ratio means the oven will require less firewood to reach baking temperatures and still release heat over a long duration. The door height ratio optimizes the balance between heat retention and proper airflow. If the door opening is too large, too much heat will escape. On the other hand, if the door opening is too small, the combustion gases won't flow properly. Decide how big you want your cooking space to be : The interior diameter of the dome should be at least 36 inches to accommodate a 24-inch oven chamber.  The oven chamber is smaller than the dome's interior diameter to create a more efficient airflow to the wood fire inside. The hot coals are pushed to the sides of the chamber, creating a space in the center for the food to be baked. This allows the heat to circulate around the food, cooking it evenly. Add inches for cob oven walls : Factor in the thickness of cob oven walls, which can vary. The first layer is often referred to as the “thermal layer” or “dome” and is usually made with a mix of just clay and sand but no straw. A thickness of four inches is common for the thermal layer, but some people go with a thinner three-inch dome for faster heating. The outer cob layer is the insulating layer, which includes the straw and is usually a minimum of four inches thick. Six inches is even better, so at its maximum, your cob oven could be as thick as 10 inches or more. Step 4: Build the Base As with the size of your cob oven, you have plenty of options when it comes to how you build your base. Many cob ovens you see online are built on stone bases, some mortared and others dry-stacked. In our case, we had leftover materials from building our home, so we used ICF block to build a square base and then filled that with a mix of concrete rubble, also leftover from construction, rocks, cinder, and then sand at the top. We added a layer of glass bottles for insulation on the sand layer you see in this photo and then covered that with sand, too. Depending on how big (or small) an oven you’ve decided on, you’ll want to build a base that’s at least the same size, including the added thickness of the cob walls. Since our base is rectangular, we made sure to build it large enough that the diameter of the finished cob oven and the doorway would fit entirely within the outer edges. Here are the basics of building a base for your cob oven: Mark the area : Measure out and mark the ground with the desired diameter (or dimensions, if it’s not a circle) of your oven base.  Cut out the base footprint : With a shovel or spade, remove any grass, weeds, or rocks from the area. Dig about six inches deep to create a foundation for your oven base. Fill the hole with gravel and tamp it down firmly. This will provide drainage and stability for your oven base. Build the base walls : Lay rocks, bricks, or blocks—whatever you’re using to build your base—on top of the gravel. Fill in the base : Fill the center of your base with your choice of stone, rubble, cinder, etc. You can also top it off with a layer of glass bottles covered in sand for added insulation. Cap the base with a layer of insulation : This can be the sand from the step above, or you can add a thermal cap on top like we did. We made a cob mix just as we later would for the oven’s insulating layer. Some people use perlite, a lightweight volcanic rock with excellent insulating properties. It can be mixed with cement or clay to make perlite concrete. Smooth and level the top of the base:  However you cap off your base, you'll want it to be smooth and level because you'll lay out your oven floor on it. Step 5: Lay out the Floor of the Cob Oven Now that your base is ready and capped off, it's time to create the cooking surface and doorway floor. You'll want a single smooth surface without a lip so you can slide your pizza peel , bread pans, skillets, or other cooking vessels right in through the doorway. Add fire brick: Start by laying out fire bricks on the base of the oven. Make sure the bricks are level and tightly packed together. Mark out the oven footprint : Once the fire bricks are laid out, measure and mark the footprint of the oven dome on the bricks. This should be a circular shape with a diameter that matches the interior floor measurement you figured out in Step 3 when sizing your oven. You can do this with the string and pencil (or chalk) method, use a cardboard template, a tape measure beam compass ... however you want to draw your circle. Just be sure to leave enough room out front for your arched doorway, should you wish to build one (some people mold a doorway with the cob). Step 6: Build an Arched Doorway Every oven needs a door, right? Traditionally, cob oven doorways are arched. While some people choose to mold a doorway with the cob itself as they build the oven, others (like us) go the brick archway route. Create a form : First, build a form for the arched oven doorway. This can be made from wood or other sturdy materials. Some people use a bucket cut in half to make an arch. Regardless of how you make a form, remember that the doorway height should be about 63% of the interior ceiling height, and the opening's width should ideally be about 50% of the dome's diameter. If you make the form from wood, you can cut two arched pieces to the same shape and size as the opening you want. Connect those pieces to form a double arch so that the depth of your form matches the length of the bricks you'll use for your arched doorway. Check out the photo of a simple arched doorway form in this "The Year of Mud" post. Position the form : Once the form is ready, place it on top of the fire brick base at the front edge of the circle you drew to mark out the dome cavity. Build a brick arch : And now it 's time for arch-building using bricks and mortar. The bricks should be cut and arranged in such a way that they form a stable arch over the doorway form. We made our own adobe bricks, much the same way the cob for the oven is made with clay, sand, and pine straw, which we mixed in a bucket with a paint mixer and then dried in a scrapwood form. We made our archway bricks the same size as our fire brick, about 9x14". Remove the form: Once the mortar has dried and the arch is stable, carefully remove the form from underneath the arch. Step 7: Make the Dome Form or Mold Now that you have a fire brick oven floor and arched doorway, it's time to create a mold for the dome over which you'll build your cob oven. Once the mold is removed, you'll have your oven cavity. While there's no one right way to make the dome form, one of the best and most common methods is to use wet sand. We didn't go that route. Instead, we made a very ugly and rather lumpy form using a mix of sandbags and random rags, then covered that makeshift dome with plastic, all of which were later removed via the doorway once the cob layers had cured. We went with this by-the-seat-our-pants method because we wanted to conserve our sand (leftover from construction) for making the cob. Also, we live in such a dry environment and wanted to conserve water at the time rather than wet a bunch of sand. Using the more traditional option as our example, here are the very basic steps: Make the mold : Create a dome of wet sand to fit the circle you've drawn on your fire brick. This dome should be built to the height you've calculated for the interior of your oven. Cover the mold : Cover the wet sand dome with wet newspaper to prevent the first layer of your oven, the thermal layer, from binding with the sand mold. You can also use plastic to cover the mold, all of which you'll later remove through the doorway. The idea is that you want to add a layer between the mold and the first layer of cob, the thermal layer, so it doesn't stick together and you can remove the mold. Step 8: Add a Thermal Layer Now comes the real fun part: making mud and getting dirty, a/k/a making cob, to cover your dome mold and your arched doorway. As far as the mix for this layer, I've seen it made both with and without straw. We went without, using just clay and sand (and water, of course). While the straw fiber acts like rebar in concrete to strengthen the material, t he first layer of a cob oven, also known as the thermal layer, is designed to absorb and hold heat from the fire. This layer is typically made without straw for a couple of reasons: 1.  To m aximize thermal mass : The thermal layer is primarily for absorbing and storing heat. A mix of clay and sand, without the insulating straw, has a higher thermal mass, allowing it to store more heat. 2.  To prevent cracking : Straw can create air pockets in the cob, which might lead to cracking in the thermal layer due to the high temperatures. While one can go into a lot of detail when it comes to making cob, I'll give you the bare bones basics since that's what we did for our oven and the one I built two decades ago that's still standing. So, if you have good clay soil to begin with (soil that is roughly 15-25% clay content is great) , you can do as we did and make cob with what you already have and not worry too much about making "the perfect mix." For cob, the ratio of clay to sand can vary depending on the specific properties of the materials you have, but a common starting point is 1 part clay to 3 parts sand. We went with a 1:2 ratio of clay to sand because our subsoil already had a good amount of sand in it. If you haven't already, it's a good idea to test your cob mix before using it for your oven. You can make some test blocks or rolls (aka lumps) with the cob and leave them to dry for a couple of days. Check their strength and adjust your mixture if necessary Gather materials : Collect sand, clay subsoil, water, a tarp , and buckets. (I didn't include straw in this list because we didn't include it in our thermal layer mix.) Sift the soil : Use a screen to sift the clay subsoil and remove rocks, pebbles, and other debris. Measure materials : Place your dry ingredients (clay subsoil and sand) in the middle of your tarp in a pile. The ratio of sand to clay is typically 2:1, but this can vary depending on your local soil. Dry mix the materials : Mix the dry materials together on the tarp. Grab two corners of the tarp, walk forward to the center of the mix, and fold the tarp in half. Add water : Pile up your dry ingredients in the middle of your tarp and dig out a small crater. Add a little bit of water into the volcano crater. Mix with your feet : Some people use other methods, like cement mixers, to mix cob, but we like to do it the more traditional, messier way: with feet. (Not to mention that it's a great excuse for a social gathering—a cob-stomping party!) Use your feet to push the outsides of the dry material into the center of the crater filled with water. Once you cover the water, start stomping on the pile. Keep adding water as needed and mixing, then use your tarp to roll the cob into a "burrito" until you have the right consistency. The consistency you're going for is kind of like playdough. You don't want it so sticky that you can't get it off your hands but not so dry that it will crumble and won't cure right. One way to test your cob mix is to take a baseball-sized lump, make a ball, and drop it from shoulder height. If the ball flattens to less than two-thirds of its original height, it's too wet. If it cracks, it may not have either enough water or enough clay. Build up the thermal layer in rows: Once you have a consistency you like, scoop some up and pat it into a long, round shape between 3 and 4 inches thick. Begin building up your thermal layer around your dome and arched doorway with these round "blobs." Once you've covered your form, it'll look a bit like a beehive. You can blend the rows as you build. Add a cob doorstop : I'll stick this in here since this is when we added ours. Thinking ahead to making an oven door that won't fall in, you can build a lip or doorstop around the cob oven doorway. This can be done by adding an extra layer of cob around the doorway, creating a ridge for the door to rest against. You can also build a small ledge or doorstop outside the oven, just below the doorway, to keep the door from falling out. Score the thermal layer and let dry : We recommend scoring this first layer of cob (we used a fork) to help the next layer (the insulating cob layer) adhere to it. Then let your thermal layer dry, which can take several days, a week, or more, depending on the weather and how much sun it gets. Optional: Add a chimney Sometimes cob ovens are topped with a chimney or flue, but this is completely up to you. Without one, what smoke the oven produces will flow out through the doorway, which is fine. Most cob ovens I've seen don't have a chimney at all, while some have chimneys made of cob, and others have just a hole at the top. We added a flue because we had an old one on hand, but you can certainly go without any type of chimney or vent. Step 9: Add an Insulating Cob Layer The second cob layer should include straw in the mix. Straw is a good insulator and helps to retain the heat within the oven. So, while straw is usually excluded from the thermal layer to maximize heat absorption and minimize cracking, it’s included as a binder in the insulation layer to add tensile strength and help hold in the heat. Gather, sift, measure, mix : Repeat your cob-making process as you did for the thermal layer, first mixing the clay and sand with water. Add straw : After achieving a good consistency with your sand, clay, and water mixture, add your straw of choice, and stomp and mix some more.  Pine straw is a great (free) alternative. How much straw? Oh... kind of, sort of a lot... but not too much. Basically, enough that each handful of cob has some straw running through it but not so much that it's difficult to work with. Build up the second layer in rows : As with the thermal layer, make round, brick-length shapes with the cob, this time with a thickness of four or more inches. Press them into your thermal layer as you build up this insulation layer. Let the cob dry : As with the thermal layer, drying time will vary. Step 10: Cure the Cob Oven and Finish Congratulations! You've built a cob oven. Just a few more things to do... Remove the dome form : Through the oven doorway, dig out the sand and, if you used it, the plastic from the inside of the oven (or pull out or burn out the form, depending on how you constructed it). If you used newspaper over a wet sand form, that will burn out. Cure the interior : Heat up the oven with a small fire, gradually increasing the temperature to cure the cob and remove any remaining moisture. Want to know how hot your cob oven is? We love this little gadget. It's an inexpensive digital infrared thermometer . Point it at whatever you want to read the temperature of, and... there you go. We've tested ours by comparing it with other types of thermometers, and it's ready right about the same. It's also proven itself by how well our food bakes in the cob oven. Add a protective finish: While it's best to build a roof over a cob oven — or build a cob oven under a roof — to protect it from rain and snow, adding a third and final layer is a good idea. We started using our oven before doing this, partly because of the wintery weather catching up with us, we'll be adding a lime plaster in the spring (and updating this post). 1.   Lime Plaster : Lime plaster is a common choice. It’s made by mixing one part hydrated lime with three parts sand. Lime plaster is durable, weather-resistant, and can be applied smoothly for an aesthetically pleasing finish. Here's a really handy guide to making a lime plaster on cob . This is our oven after applying a lime plaster without added color. 2.  Earthen Plaster : Earthen plaster is another option. Similar to cob, it's typically made from clay soil, sand, a fiber material like straw, and sometimes includes a natural binder like wheat paste. Earthen plaster is breathable and has good thermal mass, but it’s not as weather-resistant as lime plaster. Learn more about making earthen plaster here. 3.  Cob with High Straw Content : A layer of cob with a high straw content can also be used as a protective layer. The straw provides insulation and helps the cob to adhere to the underlying layers. 4.   Fibers or Mesh for Reinforcement : Natural hair, high-quality polypropylene, or alkali-resistant glass fibers can be added to the plaster for extra strength. Mesh can also be used for further reinforcement. You can learn more about these options here: A Guide to Lime Rendering Cob Walls . Add a Door, and Your Ready for Cob Oven Cooking With the thermal and insulation layers of your cob oven complete and your oven cured, it’s time to add the final touch: the door. The door can be as simple as a thick piece of untreated hardwood (but pine works, too) cut to fit snugly within the arched doorway, with a handle added. Before you cook, it's best to soak a wooden door for several hours so it’s fully saturated to prevent it from burning. Or you can insulate the door by attaching a layer of ceramic fiber blanket or other insulating material to the inside, or apply a heat-resistant, epoxy-based paint or varnish. A metal door is another option. And now that your cob oven is complete, the culinary adventures can begin. The unique heat properties of a cob oven make it perfect for a wide range of dishes. From crispy pizzas and golden loaves of bread to succulent roasts and roasted vegetables to cakes, biscuits, and pies, the possibilities are many. And the more you cook with a single firing, the more efficient and sustainable your cob oven cooking will be. The cob oven isn’t just a cooking tool; it’s a gateway to a world of flavors, textures, and delightful culinary experiences in a very cool way. We went with a lean-to-style gazebo kit to shelter our cob oven, with extra room for other outdoor cooking options. More Cob and Cob Oven Resources How to build your own cob oven — This is similar to how we built our oven with some slight variations. There are good photos at the end that help illustrate some of the steps and stages we didn't take pictures of. Building With Cob: Soil Tests and Mixing Cob — This article shares more details about soil horizons and subsoil, the soil jar test, and the steps to making cob. 150 Best Cob Oven Ideas — Looking for a lot more inspiration and cob ovens that are a lot prettier and more slick-looking than ours? If so, check out this Pinterest page. Building a Cob Oven FAQ What is a cob oven, and why should I build one? A cob oven is an outdoor oven made from a mixture of clay subsoil, sand, and straw. It is eco-friendly, cost-effective, and provides a unique cooking experience. Cob ovens can last for decades and are great for baking bread, pizzas, and other dishes. What materials do I need to build a cob oven? You will need clay subsoil, sand, straw, fire bricks, gravel, and materials for the base (such as stones, bricks, or blocks). Additional materials include a soil sifting screen, buckets, water, a tarp, and tools like a level, measuring tape, and a trowel. How do I choose the right location for my cob oven? Select a location that is convenient, safe, and protected from the elements. Avoid areas prone to flooding or strong winds, and ensure the site has good drainage. You may also want to build a shelter to protect the oven from rain and snow. What are the basic steps to building a cob oven? The steps include choosing a location, preparing the site, figuring out the size, building the base, laying out the floor, building an arched doorway, creating a dome form, adding a thermal layer, adding an insulating cob layer, curing the cob, and finishing with a protective layer and a door. Why is it important to use specific proportions when building a cob oven? Proper proportions ensure the oven heats evenly and maintains its temperature effectively. The interior ceiling height should be around 75% of the oven floor’s diameter, and the door height should be about 63% of the ceiling height. This optimizes heat retention and airflow. How do I ensure proper drainage and moisture control for my cob oven? Proper drainage and moisture control can be achieved by drilling drainage holes in the oven base, using gravel beneath the base, and ensuring the site is level. Additionally, regular maintenance and using a lime plaster or earthen plaster can protect the cob from moisture. What are some tips for curing and maintaining a cob oven? Cure the oven by gradually heating it with small fires to remove moisture. Use a digital infrared thermometer to monitor the temperature. To maintain the oven, add a protective finish like lime plaster and build a shelter to protect it from the weather. Regularly check for cracks and repair them promptly to ensure longevity.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. If you’re a sustainable living enthusiast, a backyard gardener, or simply someone who prefers to compost rather than send food, landscaping, and gardening leftovers to the landfill, you’ve probably wondered about the fate of those pine needles that accumulate under your evergreen trees. But wonder no more! (Sorry, a little overly enthusiastic there.) We’re diving into the world of composting pine needles, demystifying their acidity, and providing practical tips for incorporating them into your compost pile. The Short Answer: Yes, But Within Limits Can you compost pine needles?  Absolutely! However, there are a couple of important considerations: Quantity : Pine needles decompose at a snail’s pace, so moderation is key. Aim for no more than 10% of your overall compost pile to be pine needles. Mix them with other composting materials for best results. Acidity : Pines are known for their acidic nature, but here’s the twist: fresh green pine needles are indeed acidic, with a pH between 3.2 and 3.8, but they mellow out over time. As they turn brown, fall from the tree, and decompose, their acidity diminishes. In fact, decomposed pine needles end up with a fairly neutral pH of 5.6 – 6.0. So, rest assured, your garden won’t turn into a sour lemon grove. Practical Tips for Composting Pine Needles Pine needles decompose at different rates depending on various factors, including the climate and how they're processed. If pine needles are left to decompose naturally without any intervention, it can take anywhere from one to three years, depending on your region and annual rainfall. But if they're prepared properly and added to a compost pile, pine needle decomp time can be reduced to anywhere from three weeks to two months. Mix It Up : Pine needles are like the introverts of the compost world—they take their sweet time to mingle. To speed things up, combine them with other composting materials. Think of it as a garden party where pine needles get to hang out with kitchen scraps, grass clippings, and coffee grounds. Shred the Pine Needles : If you already have one, you can use a garden shredder or a lawn mower to shred the pine needles into small pieces. You can also use a paint stirrer attached to a drill and shred the needles in a bucket, or even just do it by hand. However you shred the pine needles, this increases the surface area and helps speed up the decomposition process. Use Small Batches : Use only small amounts of needles. Remember the 10% rule? It’s your golden ticket. Too many pine needles can slow down the entire composting process. Layer Them : If you have an abundance of pine needles, consider creating a separate compost bin , barrel, or pile just for them. Layer them with other organic matter, like leaves or straw. This specialized pile can yield slightly acidic compost, perfect for plants that adore a touch of tanginess. Rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas (the “lime-hating” crew) will thank you. Moisten and Turn the Pile : No matter the composition of your compost pile, this is always best practice. Moisten the compost layers unless rain has already done this for you. The pile should be kept well-aerated and moist to facilitate the breakdown process. Then, turn the compost every three days until it breaks down into a beautiful brown mass. Pine Needles: The Unsung Heroes Pine needles might not win any sprint races in the composting world, but they play a vital role. They’re a fantastic carbon source—the “brown” stuff—that balances out the nitrogen-rich green materials. Plus, they add texture and structure to your compost pile. Mulching with Pine Needles Beyond composting, pine needles serve as excellent mulch for garden beds. Their interlocking nature creates a natural barrier that helps suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Also, as pine needles break down gradually, they release nutrients into the soil, enriching it over time. Consider mulching around acid-loving plants like blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons to provide them with an optimal growing environment. pH Considerations While fresh pine needles possess acidity, the composting process neutralizes their pH over time. However, if you're aiming to create acidic compost for specific plants, such as those mentioned earlier, you can adjust your composting strategy accordingly. Introduce additional acidic materials like coffee grounds, citrus peels, or oak leaves to create a tailored compost blend that caters to the needs of acid-loving plants. Composting Pine Needles in Different Climates The decomposition rate of pine needles can vary depending on environmental factors such as temperature and moisture levels. In warmer climates, decomposition might occur more rapidly, while in cooler regions, it may take longer. Adjust your composting timeline and techniques accordingly, and consider incorporating pine needles into your composting regimen year-round for a consistent supply of organic matter. Pine Needles: Composting and Beyond Composting pine needles offers a multitude of benefits for sustainable gardeners, from balancing compost ratios to enriching soil and supporting plant health. By recognizing pine needles' unique properties and incorporating them into your composting practices, you can harness their potential to cultivate thriving gardens and contribute to a greener, more sustainable world. So , next time you sweep up fallen pine needles, toss them into your compost bin with a wink and a smile. They’ll eventually break down, enriching your soil and supporting your sustainable journey. Want some other ideas for how to use, reuse, and repurpose pine needles? Check out How To Use and Repurpose Pine Needles for Home and Garden . Different Types of Commercial Compost Bins We'll get into various ways to build your own compost bins with materials you may already have lying around, but in the meantime, here are some durable bins you can buy to get your composting started. Tumbler bin: These types of bins use rotation to bring oxygen to the center of the bin and help mix and aerate the composting materials when turned. These improvements or modifications are designed to speed up the composting process. Ventilated compost box : Made of BPA-free material, this type of compost box has four vents on each side, providing good air circulation for composting and speeding up the composting cycle. You load new material from the top lid and take the compost from the sliding bottom door, making it easy to collect the soil. Expandable composter : You can adjust the size of the bin as needed, while the holes in the composter's wall help air fully circulate, increasing the contact area and improving the fermentation of leaves, grass clippings, cardboard boxes, coffee grounds, kitchen waste, etc. Compost bag : These reusable, durable, multi-use bags have a large capacity to hold a large amount of kitchen and plant waste to be fermented into compost. With openings at the top and bottom, it's easy to add material, check on the compost, and remove soil. Pine Needle Composting FAQ Can pine needles be composted, and what are the key considerations? Yes, pine needles can be composted. Key considerations include using them in moderation (no more than 10% of the overall compost pile) and mixing them with other composting materials to ensure balanced decomposition. Shredding the pine needles can also help speed up the process. Do pine needles affect the acidity of compost? Fresh green pine needles are acidic, with a pH between 3.2 and 3.8. However, as they decompose, their acidity diminishes, and they end up with a neutral pH of 5.6 to 6.0. This makes them safe for most gardens without turning the soil too acidic. How long does it take for pine needles to decompose in a compost pile? If left to decompose naturally, pine needles can take one to three years, depending on climate and moisture. However, when properly prepared and added to a compost pile, their decomposition time can be reduced to three weeks to two months. What methods can be used to speed up the decomposition of pine needles? To speed up decomposition, shred the pine needles using a garden shredder, lawn mower, or even a drill with a paint stirrer attachment. Mixing them with other compost materials, maintaining moisture, and regularly turning the pile can also help. What are some benefits of using pine needles as mulch? Pine needles serve as excellent mulch for garden beds. Their interlocking nature helps suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature. As they break down, they release nutrients into the soil, enriching it over time, particularly benefiting acid-loving plants like blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. I used to think composting simply meant tossing food scraps into some sort of bin, waiting for several months, give or take, and voila! Out would come rich, dark dirt. Not that composting is much more complex than that, but there are some general dos and don'ts, some best practices, and more than one way to do it. Who knew?  In the world of composting, there's no one-size-fits-all solution. Whether you're a city dweller with limited space, a gardening enthusiast wanting to turn yard and garden waste into soil gold, or a conscientious homeowner looking for an efficient way to manage kitchen scraps rather than tossing them in the trash, there's a composting method suited to your needs. In today's guide, we'll explore various ways to make compost, from traditional backyard composting to more specialized techniques like vermicomposting and bokashi. Each type of composting offers advantages ("pros"), has limitations and requirements ("cons"), and is adaptable to different lifestyles and levels of compostable material.  1. Traditional Backyard Composting Traditional backyard composting is one of the most popular methods for turning organic waste into nutrient-rich compost. All you need is a designated area in your yard or a compost bin, whether it's a DIY bin or a manufactured one, like a dual-chamber compost tumbler . Simply layer organic materials such as kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, yard and garden waste, and shredded paper or cardboard for a good mix of nitrogen-rich "greens" and carbon-rich "browns." Regularly turning and monitoring the pile's temperature and moisture levels will speed up the decomposition process. Pros: Bins come in various designs, allowing you to choose one that fits with your outdoor space Helps keep your compost pile tidy and contained, preventing it from spreading or attracting pests Helps insulate the compost pile, promoting and maintaining the ideal temperature range for decomposition Allows you to manage the composting process and control the quality of the compost Cons: Can produce odor Requires some maintenance Requires a balance of greens and browns by weight, ideally half and half Decomposition can be slow (compared to hot composting below) depending on how much attention and maintenance you do, such as turning it 2. Vermicomposting: Composting With Worms Composting with worms, or vermicomposting, is an excellent option for those with limited outdoor space or who want to compost indoors. Red wigglers or European nightcrawlers are the stars of this method, devouring kitchen scraps and transforming them into nutrient-rich castings. Setting up a vermicomposting bin involves choosing the right container, adding bedding materials like shredded paper, and introducing the worms . Regular feeding and maintenance will keep your worm bin thriving. Pros: Produces rich compost, excellent for improving poor or depleted soils Can be done in a small indoor area Results in less loss of nitrogen compared with traditional composting Cons: Can be a little more complicated than traditional composting and requires constant maintenance Doesn't kill weed seeds Can be too rich in nutrients and, therefore, potentially counterproductive for plants if you add too much to existing soil that is already on the healthier side 3. Bokashi Composting: Fermenting Kitchen Waste Bokashi offers a unique approach to composting by fermenting kitchen waste using beneficial microbes. Airtight containers are filled with layers of kitchen scraps and bokashi bran , initiating an anaerobic fermentation process. This method allows for composting meat, dairy, and cooked foods that traditional methods may not handle well. Once fermented, the material can be buried in soil or added to a traditional compost pile to complete decomposition. You can also make Bokashi "tea" to water plants. You can either buy a commercial Bokashi composter like this 2-Bin Bokashi Starter Kit  or this Premium Bokashi Kitchen Composter or make one yourself. Here's how… Pros: Allows you to compost meat and dairy scraps Provides a nutritious bokashi tea to use as homemade plant food Can be done in a small space, making it ideal for composting in an apartment Cons: Requires a special bokashi mixture, which can be expensive and difficult to find in some areas. Requires extra materials (finished compost, compost fleece, or mulch) 4. Trench Composting: Directly Enriching Soil Trench composting involves burying organic materials directly into the soil. This method requires no dedicated compost bin or pile and is great for enriching garden beds or preparing planting holes over time. This method is pretty straightforward. Simply dig a trench or hole, drop in compostable material, and then cover it with soil. The idea is that when the soil cuts off air, anaerobic bacteria break down the organic matter. The buried materials will decompose, enriching the soil and providing nutrients to plants.   There are different methods of trench composting, and some involve building up layers over several weeks. For example, deep trench composting involves digging a deeper trench and usually involves layers being built up over several weeks. You add food scraps or other organic materials, add an inch of soil, and then put a barrier, such as a pest-proof mesh , on top to discourage critters. You continue layering until you have nearly filled the trench. When about 5-6 inches are left, fill in the soil until the trench is full . This provides enough soil covering for plants to grow after adding the compostable materials. Wait at least six weeks before planting on top (some sources say wait as long as a year). This allows the organic material to decompose and enrich the soil. Pros: Low-maintenance and cost-effective Great for adding nutrients to the soil without having to spread a lot of compost or deal with a compost heap or bin Typically does not produce odor or attract animals Cons: Can be hard work, digging deep holes and then filling them up again Slower decomposition than aerobic methods 5 . Hot Composting: Rapid Decomposition for Larger Batches Hot composting is ideal for those who generate larger amounts of organic waste and want a faster composting process. Though it requires more attention and maintenance than traditional backyard composting, this method can produce finished compost in as little as a few weeks by carefully layering greens and browns, providing adequate aeration, and maintaining proper moisture levels. When it comes to hot composting, the size of your bin or pile is really important. A good size for this method is at least four feet wide by four feet high. This size ensures there's enough insulation on the outside of the pile to keep the inside hot. You can just heap the materials up or use a simple wire fence bin. You can also build a large hot compost bin from wood or pallets. It's beneficial to break down compostable materials into small pieces, for example, using a lawnmower or trimmer for yard waste, before adding it to the pile or bin. Create layers of four to six inches of carbon and nitrogen materials, add water to each layer, and repeat until the pile is about 4'x4'. Insert a compost thermometer into the pile, cover it with a tarp, and check the temperature daily to see if it reaches 120 Fahrenheit or more. Move the pile over a few feet with a pitchfork to introduce new oxygen, and repeat this twice after four to five days when the temperature drops. Pros: Produces faster results Heat kills many types of weeds and pathogens Generally attracts fewer pests than some other methods Reduces the emission of greenhouse gases Cons: Requires a balance of high-carbon and high-nitrogen materials Requires regular turning of the pile Requires careful monitoring of moisture and oxygen levels 6. Aerated Static Pile Composting: Efficient Large-scale Composting Aerated static pile (ASP) composting is efficient for larger-scale composting operations such as municipalities, farms, or community gardens. This method utilizes aeration to speed up the composting process and reduce odors. Proper pile structure, aeration systems, and monitoring are key components of ASP composting, resulting in high-quality compost suitable for agricultural or landscaping use. For more information on ASP, check out this guide from Washington State University. Pros: Accelerates and manages the composting process with a much lower risk of foul odors Can be a space-efficient way to compost large volumes of waste fairly quickly Cons: Dries out faster than other compost methods and requires monitoring Depends on electricity Requires extra materials (finished compost, compost fleece, or mulch) Try Different Ways to Make Compost for More Sustainable Living Composting is a versatile and accessible way to reduce waste, improve soil health, and contribute to a more sustainable future. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or new to composting, there's a method that suits your needs and resources. By exploring different composting techniques and experimenting with various composters, you can harness the power of decomposition to transform waste into valuable soil amendments. Want to make a DIY compost bin or pile? Here are seven ways  to do it. Composting Techniques FAQs What is traditional backyard composting, and how does it work? Traditional backyard composting involves layering organic materials such as kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, yard waste, and shredded paper in a compost bin or designated area. Regular turning and monitoring of temperature and moisture levels help speed up the decomposition process, resulting in nutrient-rich compost. What are the benefits and challenges of vermicomposting? Vermicomposting, or composting with worms, produces nutrient-rich compost and can be done indoors in a small space. It requires constant maintenance and does not kill weed seeds. Additionally, it can produce compost that is too nutrient-rich for some soils if used in excess. How does Bokashi composting differ from traditional composting methods? Bokashi composting involves fermenting kitchen waste using beneficial microbes in an airtight container. This method allows for composting meat, dairy, and cooked foods, which traditional methods do not handle well. The fermented material can be buried in soil or added to a traditional compost pile to complete decomposition. What is trench composting, and what are its advantages? Trench composting involves burying organic materials directly into the soil, which enriches garden beds or planting holes over time. It requires no dedicated compost bin, produces no odor, and does not attract animals. However, it involves digging deep holes and has slower decomposition than aerobic methods. What is hot composting, and how can it speed up the composting process? Hot composting requires maintaining a large compost pile (at least four feet wide by four feet high) with layers of carbon and nitrogen materials. Regular turning, adequate aeration, and maintaining proper moisture levels can produce finished compost in a few weeks. It also kills weeds and pathogens due to the high temperature. What is aerated static pile (ASP) composting, and who is it suitable for? ASP composting is efficient for large-scale composting operations like municipalities, farms, or community gardens. It uses aeration systems to speed up the process and reduce odors. Proper pile structure and monitoring are key components, making it suitable for handling large volumes of waste quickly. What are some of the challenges associated with traditional backyard composting? Traditional backyard composting can produce odors, requires a balance of green and brown materials, and needs regular maintenance, such as turning the pile. Decomposition can be slow depending on the level of attention and maintenance given.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. We looked into rammed earth and strawbale. We considered cob and adobe brick. And earthship construction. And hempcrete and repurposed shipping containers, too. You name it, and if it was an innovative, sustainable building material, we probably explored it for the home we were planning to build at 36-Acre Wood . Then the architect who was designing our passive solar, off-grid house with a potable rainwater system  introduced us to what was behind his own plastered and stuccoed walls: insulated concrete forms (ICF) , specifically EF Block™ in our case (EF = Earth Friendly). As we had with the other materials, we weighed the pros and cons—there were more of the former than the latter for us—and we were sold. In a world increasingly focused on sustainability, builders and homeowners, including owner-builders like us, are seeking innovative solutions that combine environmental consciousness with structural integrity, not to mention affordability. Enter ICF block —a game-changer in sustainable construction. These innovative building materials combine the strength of concrete with the insulating properties of recycled foam. In this blog post, we’ll cover what ICF blocks are, how they’re made, their properties, how to build with them, and the pros and cons. ICF Block Table of Contents What Are Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)? How Are ICF Blocks Made? Properties of ICF Blocks How To Build with ICF Block ICF Pros and Cons Types of ICF Block What Can ICF Block Be Used For? More About EF Block™ Where Else To Buy ICF Block What Are Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)? ICF blocks are a type of construction system that uses rigid formwork to create reinforced concrete walls. They consist of lightweight interlocking foam blocks that serve as both insulation and formwork to create the skeleton of your building. Once the blocks are in place, concrete is poured into their hollow centers, resulting in a sturdy, well-insulated, energy-efficient structure. But here’s the twist—they’re not just any foam; they’re made from recycled expanded polystyrene (EPS) , commonly known as Styrofoam. So, instead of it ending up in the landfill and sitting there for about 500 years, you can build a very well-insulated, durable, and fire-resistant home with it, among other things. How Are ICF Blocks Made? As mentioned, the blocks are primarily made from recycled Styrofoam (8% in the case of EF Block). The EPS foam is molded into interlocking sections, resembling oversized Lego bricks, with minimal waste.  These blocks are lightweight—our 5-foot x 1-foot x 10” blocks weigh about 45 lbs each—easy to handle, and provide excellent thermal insulation. The interlocking design simplifies installation, making it a favorite among DIY builders and some general contractors we know who appreciate efficiency and sustainability. Properties of ICF Blocks When it comes to sustainable construction, ICF stands out. These foam blocks offer more than meets the eye. 🏗️🌿 Structural Strength and Durability : ICF construction combines the strength of concrete with the insulation of foam, resulting in robust and durable walls. Energy Efficiency : ICF walls offer exceptional thermal performance. The foam insulation keeps indoor temperatures stable, reducing your reliance on heating and cooling systems. Our EF Blocks have an R rating of 40.  Soundproofing : The foam insulation dampens sound, creating quieter indoor spaces. Fire Resistance : ICF walls are fire-resistant, offering protection against flames and high temperatures. Air-Sealing : The snug fit of the interlocking blocks creates airtight walls, minimizing drafts and keeping your home comfortable year-round. Affordability : At least when we were building, ICF construction cost considerably less than lumber. Including the rebar and concrete pours, our cost was about $7 per linear foot.  Flexibility : While they don’t actually bend, ICF blocks lend themselves to creative designs, including arches, curves, and even sculpted walls. How To Build with ICF Block So, you’ve decided to embrace sustainable construction and dive into the world of ICF. But wait—aren’t these high-tech foam blocks reserved for seasoned contractors?  No, ICFs aren’t just for the pros; they’re also a friendly companion for owner-builders . With a relatively small learning curve (which the company we purchased from provides upon request), ICF blocks are easy to work with and forgiving, too, if you make a mistake. So, with a dash of education and a sprinkle of determination, you can be stacking ICFs like a pro in no time. 🌱🔨 Here are the basic steps: Foundation : Start by laying ICF blocks for the foundation and stem wall. It’s like assembling a giant puzzle but with more concrete and fewer missing pieces. The blocks can be joined together with mortar, like brick-laying, or with a special glue. Wall Construction : To reuse the analogy, stack the ICF blocks like Lego bricks. Ours are offset like a brick wall, but we’ve seen a large home built with ICF blocks by stacking them in line, directly on top of each other. Reinforcing steel (rebar) is placed inside the blocks to enhance structural integrity. Pouring Concrete : Once the blocks are in place, pour concrete into the hollow cores. The concrete bonds with the foam, creating a solid wall. Note that we built our ICF in stages, beginning with the stem wall and then going up about four or five layers of block at a time. We did this due to county code requirements, with an inspection at each level. Finishing : After curing, you can finish the walls with various materials, such as stucco, siding, or plaster. ICF Pros and Cons The pros have the upper hand here. Pros of ICF Construction: Strength : ICF walls are robust and resistant to natural disasters. ICF homes feel secure… because they are. Material Efficiency : Earth-friendly ICFs use less concrete compared to some traditional methods. ICFs reduce waste and promote recycling. Time-Saving : ICFs speed up the building process with their quick installation due to interlocking blocks.  Energy Savings : Excellent insulation reduces heating and cooling costs. (Our passive solar ICF home stays comfortably warm in the winter, even in freezing temps, without additional heat. The only time we use the wood stove is when we have a stretch of two or more cloudy days with freezing temps.)  Quietude : Enjoy peace and quiet (unless maybe your closest neighbor plays the bagpipes). ICF block doesn’t block all outside sound, of course (and I don’t think anyone would want it to), but it does dampen it quite a lot. We often don’t even hear the noisy UPS truck drive up.  Cons of ICF Construction: Cost : ICF construction can be slightly more expensive upfront than some other methods (but less than others). Learning Curve : Contractors and owner-builders need some training to work with ICFs effectively. Curing Time : Concrete curing may take longer due to insulation. Types of ICF Block Insulated concrete forms come in various categories: Flat-Panel ICFs : These ICFs consist of flat panels that interlock to create the formwork. They’re versatile and suitable for both residential and commercial projects. Grid Systems : Grid-style ICFs have a grid pattern, allowing for precise placement of reinforcing steel (rebar). They’re popular for walls with complex shapes. Block-and-Panel Systems : These combine the benefits of flat panels and traditional block forms. The panels provide insulation, while the blocks offer structural support. The EF Block™ we used leans toward the block-and-panel approach, emphasizing insulation and strength. Post-and-Beam ICFs : These ICFs are designed for larger spans, such as creating arches or vaulted ceilings. They use vertical posts and horizontal beams. Tapered ICFs : Tapered forms allow for curved walls, making them ideal for unique structures. They’re often used in custom homes and artistic projects. What Can ICF Block Be Used For? If it can be built, it can probably be built with ICF blocks. While they're primarily used in construction to create energy-efficient and resilient buildings, they can also be used in a variety of other creative ways. Here are some common applications: Residential Construction : ICFs are widely used in residential construction for building energy-efficient homes. They can be used for single-story residential and commercial buildings, high-rise projects, basements, underground homes, or entire multi-story homes. Some builders use only insulated concrete foundation forms and combine them with other building methods above ground. Commercial Buildings : ICFs have found applications in commercial construction, particularly for structures that require strong thermal performance and fire resistance. Commercial ICF construction has strict standards, codes, budgets, and timelines to follow. Multi-story Buildings : ICF blocks have been used for walls surpassing 40 feet of unsupported height. The tallest ICF structure is a 23-story building in Waterloo, Ontario. Disaster-Resistant Buildings : Due to their strength and durability, ICFs are often used in regions subject to regular hurricanes. They exceed safety, resilience, and durability requirements for FEMA-ATFP Federal Military Standards. Custom Homes and Specialty Projects : ICFs can also be used for custom homes and specialty projects with unique, creative designs. We’ve also seen ICF blocks used to create public benches and planters, and we’ve used leftover blocks for these applications on our own property. Here are some ways ICF block lends itself to unique, creative designs: Flexibility in Design : ICFs are flexible and can accommodate most any size or style of design a homeowner or architect can dream up. They're simple to cut and shape. Customized Architectural Effects : ICFs can include customized architectural effects, such as curved walls, large openings, long ceiling spans, custom angles, and cathedral ceilings. This allows for the creation of unique and aesthetically pleasing designs. Sculptural Walls : The strength and flexibility of concrete allow ICFs to be used for creating sculptural walls. These can be custom-designed and shaped to fit the specific needs of a project. Outdoor Structures : Beyond buildings, ICFs can also be used for constructing outdoor structures like benches, planters, and even sculptural elements. Their durability makes them suitable for these applications. Artistic Designs : Creative and artistic architects design unique and beautiful structures that reflect the owners and culture. ICFs provide a superior architectural design solution for any home or building style. More About EF Block™ EF BlockTM is an innovative product in the world of ICF, manufactured by Earth Friendly Building Materials LLC (EFBM), established in 1990. These blocks are easy to stack and shape, allowing for versatile construction designs. EFBM, based in Arizona, has been involved with over 10,000 completed ICF projects throughout the US and Mexico. While most ICF products share the same qualities, we chose EF BlockTM because the company's owners happen to have a home in our area and were very responsive to our calls and emails. They connected us with a local subcontractor who’d built his own home with their ICF product and was able to assist us with ours.  Here are the details about EF BlockTM: Built-in Thermal Insulation : EF BlockTM has thermal insulative qualities equivalent to an R-40 insulation rating. Hurricane (Wind) Resistance : These blocks are 700% stronger than a typical 2x6 frame with a 1/2-inch shear wall. Mold and Mildew Resistance : EF BlockTM keeps your home mold-free and fresh. Fire Resistance : EF BlockTM has a 4-hour fire rating, which is beneficial for those who live in an area at risk from wildfires. Easy Installation : EF BlockTM is fairly easy to install, saving construction time and labor costs. Bug Resistance:  Termites won’t nibble on these blocks. Green Building Material : Made from 87% recycled post-consumer Styrofoam, EF BlockTM is a sustainable choice. Other ICF brands may have different features, shapes, and sizes. Some emphasize ease of installation, while others prioritize specific performance characteristics. For more information about this type of ICF block, as well as the Earth Friendly Building Material’s gallery , training program, and their role as Arizona’s #1 EPS recycler, check out their website at EFBM.com . (Note that we’re not affiliated with this company in any way and don’t earn any commission if you click this link and end up purchasing from them. We’re simply past customers who were happy with their service and very happy with the product.) . Where Else To Buy ICF Block If you’re looking to purchase i nsulated concrete forms   for your construction project, here are some other retailers and stores, among many, that sell and ship them: ICF Supply Co. BuildBlock Building Systems Alibaba Insulated Concrete Form Supply Inc. eBay Amvic Building Systems ICF blocks aren’t just building materials; they’re a sustainable lifestyle choice. So, whether you’re constructing a cozy cottage or a modern mansion, consider the ICF alternative.   🌿🏠🔨 ICF Block FAQs What is ICF block, and why is it considered a sustainable building solution? ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) blocks are high-tech foam blocks used in construction. They provide excellent insulation, reduce heating and cooling costs, use less concrete compared to traditional methods, and promote recycling, making them a sustainable building solution. How do you construct a wall using ICF blocks? To construct a wall with ICF blocks, you start by laying the blocks for the foundation and stem wall. Stack the blocks like Lego bricks, place reinforcing steel (rebar) inside, and then pour concrete into the hollow cores. Finish the walls with materials such as stucco, siding, or plaster after the concrete cures. What are the pros and cons of using ICF blocks in construction? Pros include strength, material efficiency, time-saving, energy savings, and noise reduction. Cons include a higher upfront cost, a learning curve for proper installation, and potentially longer concrete curing times due to insulation. What types of ICF blocks are available for different construction needs? Types of ICF blocks include Flat-Panel ICFs, Grid Systems, Block-and-Panel Systems, Post-and-Beam ICFs, and Tapered ICFs. Each type offers different benefits, such as versatility, structural support, and the ability to create unique designs. What are some common applications for ICF blocks in construction? ICF blocks are used in residential construction, commercial buildings, multi-story buildings, disaster-resistant buildings, and custom homes. They can also be used for outdoor structures, public benches, planters, and sculptural elements.

Disclaimer: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. A DIY Guide to Sourcing & Salvaging Wooden Pallets If you're as passionate about sustainable living as we are, you know that repurposing wooden pallets can be a game-changer for keeping your creative and functional projects on the inexpensive and even free side.  Today, we're diving into the nitty-gritty of taking apart and preparing pallets for reuse, repurposing, and upcycling. Whether you're dealing with one pallet, a handful, or a pallet-filled workshop, these tips are for you. The Simple Tools of the Pallet Reclamation Trade Let's start with the basics. For a small number of pallets, all you need are a few simple tools you might already have on hand: a short pry bar , a hammer, and some work gloves (you know, for splinter prevention). First, inspect the pallet for loose nails and remove them. Then, use the pry bar and lift the slats away from the frame.  How To Take Pallets Apart Preserving pallet wood intact can be tricky, especially when it’s been sitting out in the elements for a while—but fear not! It just takes a little finesse and some elbow grease, along with a drop of luck. Step 1: First, t o avoid splintering the pallet wood, focus on the corners, one slat at a time. Place the claw end of the pry bar under the edge of a slat and tap with the hammer to work it under, then start pulling up on the bar. It’s more like jerky tugging than aggressive yanking. You'll probably have to use your foot (or a partner's foot) to steady and hold down the pallet as you pull. Step 2: Once the ends of a slat are loosened, move to the center of the slat. Using the hammer and pry bar method, work up the inner nails. Step 3: When the slat is loosened from end to end, work back and forth along the pallet to pry it off completely. Insert the pry bar carefully into the gaps and apply even pressure.  Patience is key here—take your time to avoid splitting the wood. Slow and steady wins the race, allowing you to salvage both the slats and the frame for all sorts of projects. Step 4: Flip the slat over and tap out the old nails. Handling Pallet Pullers: Tackling Larger Loads Now, if you're dealing with a pallet bonanza, investing in a pallet puller  can be a game-changer. These handy devices make disassembling large quantities much easier, say, if you’re making a pallet accent wall. Just attach the puller to the pallet, give it some muscle, and voila! The pallet comes apart, intact, and ready for its new life. Pro Tip: Have tons of pallets to take apart? Invite your friends and have a pallet-pulling par-tay. Know Your Pallets: A Brief Wood 101 Understanding different types of wood pallets enhances your creative options. Hardwood pallets, usually made from oak or maple, are robust and great for furniture projects. Softwood pallets, often crafted from pine or cedar, are lightweight and perfect for decorative items. If possible, opt for heat-treated (HT) pallets over chemically treated ones to ensure safety for indoor use. Preparing the Reclaimed Pallet Wood Once you’ve taken apart your pallets, it's time to prepare the reclaimed lumber, no matter what the type. Start by removing any remaining nails or staples and sand rough edges.  For a weathered, rustic look, embrace the imperfections. If you prefer a polished finish, a thorough sanding will do the trick.  We’ve found that a medium grit sandpaper  between 60-80 grit is best for pallet wood. Work in the direction of the wood grain. Sanding across the grain leaves scratches, which will be even more obvious if you paint, stain, or varnish afterward. Where and How To Find Free Pallets Now that you're stoked about the prospect of reclaiming used wood pallets, you might be wondering where and how to find them for free—without having to order a ton of bricks (on pallets). There are several types of sources where you can score free pallets: 1. Local Businesses Many local businesses receive goods on pallets and often have a surplus they need to part with. Small retailers, warehouses, and grocery stores are great places to check. Don't be afraid to ask the store manager if they have any pallets they're willing to give away.  Remember those print newspapers people used to have tossed onto their driveways? No? Well, we had a local newspaper place that used to give away loads of pallets, so if you still have one around, that’s another potentially good source. 2. Industrial Areas Industrial areas and manufacturing plants tend to have a surplus of pallets. Drive around these places and you might find pallets stacked outside businesses, free for the taking. That is, always ask for permission before taking pallets from private properties… just in case. 3. Online Marketplaces Websites like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and Freecycle are excellent platforms to find free pallets. People often give away pallets they no longer need. Keep an eye on these sites and act quickly when you find listings for free pallets as they’re usually in high demand. 4. Construction Sites Construction sites frequently receive building materials on pallets, and workers might be willing to part with empty pallets they no longer need. If you’re like me, you can approach the site manager or workers with a sheepish smile and ask if you can take some pallets off their hands—you know, so they’re out of their way and they don’t have to deal with them. 5. Recycling Centers and Dumps Recycling centers and dumps often have designated areas for wooden pallets. Some centers allow people to take pallets for free. Check the rules and regs of your local recycling center to see if they offer this service. 6. Local Farms and Nurseries Farms and nurseries receive shipments on pallets. Approach local farmers or nursery owners and ask if they have any available. They might be more than happy to let you take them off their hands. 7. Distribution Centers Distribution centers for supermarkets and large retailers are another potential source for finding free pallets. Reach out to these centers and inquire about their pallet disposal policies. Sometimes, they have a surplus they’re willing to give away. Remember, when collecting pallets, it's important to give them a once over. Look for pallets that are clean, dry, and free from any visible damage. Try to avoid pallets that have stains, strong odors, or signs of chemical spills, as they might not be safe for use in your DIY projects. Reuse Pallets for Creative, Functional DIY Projects Now that you've mastered the art of pallet reclamation and how to take pallets apart, the possibilities are endless. From rustic photo frames to trendy garden furniture, these salvaged treasures can become anything your imagination desires. Plus, you're not just saving money; you're reducing waste, which is always a good thing. Check out these 50 creative and functional ideas for unleashing the potential of wooden pallets . Taking Pallets Apart FAQs 1. What tools do I need to take apart a wooden pallet? For taking apart a small number of pallets, you need a short pry bar, a hammer, and work gloves to prevent splinters. Eye protection is also a good idea. 2. How can I avoid splintering the wood when taking apart pallets? To avoid splintering, focus on the corners of each slat, use the claw end of a pry bar to gently lift the slats, and apply even pressure while pulling. Patience is key to preserving the wood intact. 3. What are the benefits of using a pallet puller for disassembling large quantities of pallets? A pallet puller makes disassembling large quantities of pallets easier and more efficient. It helps to quickly separate the slats from the frame without much manual effort, ideal for large projects like creating a pallet accent wall. 4. Where can I find free wooden pallets for my DIY projects? You can find free wooden pallets at local businesses, industrial areas, online marketplaces like Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace, construction sites, recycling centers, local farms and nurseries, and distribution centers for supermarkets and large retailers. 5. What should I do to prepare reclaimed pallet wood for reuse? After taking apart the pallets, remove any remaining nails or staples, and sand the rough edges. Use medium-grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) and work in the direction of the wood grain for the best results, whether you prefer a rustic or polished finish.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. If, like us, you live in a rural area without municipal trash collection or (or “and”) want to live more sustainably and reduce your household’s environmental impact—also like us—you might be thinking about ways to minimize the trash you generate. We are, too. According to the EPA, the largest component of household trash in the United States is typically paper and paperboard, which make up about 23.1% of municipal solid waste (MSW). Food waste follows closely, making up about 21.6% of MSW. Plastics and yard trimmings account for about 12% each, followed by metals at nearly 9%. Obviously, reducing those and other kinds of household waste is not only beneficial for the environment but also for our wallets. For those of us who don’t live in a place with curbside pickup, we have the added cost of taking our trash (in our case, more than 50 miles round-trip) to the landfill to dispose of properly, so the less waste we have to haul, the better. In this post, we’ll brainstorm as many ways as we can to reduce trash, considering that even small changes in our daily habits can collectively make a significant impact. Here are some practical ways to minimize household and yard waste. Can you add more? General Trash-Reduction Lifestyle Tips Adopt a minimalist lifestyle by decluttering and only purchasing items you truly need. This will reduce overall consumption and waste, not to mention save money. Practice mindful consumption. Make thoughtful purchasing decisions to reduce overall consumption and waste. Invest in durable products that last longer and reduce the need for replacements. Support sustainable brands by choosing products from companies that prioritize sustainability and eco-friendly practices and packaging. Get organized. When items, including food and leftover hardware, for example, are well-organized and accessible, you can easily see what you have. This prevents overbuying and reduces the chances of food or other perishables going to waste. How To Reduce Household Trash Compost organic waste to convert food scraps and yard waste, such as grass clippings, leaves, and pine needles, into nutrient-rich soil to use for gardening or spread on the lawn or around trees and plants. (Can you compost pine needles? Yes.) Use reusable shopping bags to reduce the need for single-use plastic bags. Keep some in each vehicle and the small stuff-sack kind in your purse or pockets so you always have some on hand. Choose products with minimal packaging when possible, including zero-waste products, to reduce trash. Instead of buying single-use plastic bottles, use durable, reusable products, such as BPA-free water bottles. Refill bottles to keep in your fridge and vehicles. Switch to reusable cloth napkins and towels instead of disposable paper ones for meals and cleaning. Use rechargeable batteries instead of disposable ones. Use soap nuts or detergent sheets for laundry to reduce plastic waste. Repair items when possible instead of discarding them to extend their lifespan. Recycle electronic items that can’t be reused. Some companies, like Best Buy, Staples, and Walmart, accept a variety of items for recycling and sometimes give you cash back, store credit, or rewards points in return. Avoid single-use items like plastic cutlery. If getting takeout food, for example, be sure to ask the provider not to put plastic utensils in the bag. Keep reusable utensils in your glove box or camping cutlery set in your pocket or purse instead. Use digital methods for bills, receipts, and tickets to reduce waste. Some companies offer discounts for customers who opt for electronic statements. Use vinegar and baking soda for cleaning for natural and eco-friendly cleaning solutions and reduce plastic waste. Opt for e-books, audiobooks, and other digital formats for reading to reduce paper waste. Repurpose glass jars for storage or DIY projects instead of discarding them. Upcycle old clothing and transform it into new items or repurpose it as cleaning rags. Use recyclables or leftovers to create art and functional items. Reusing pallets is one example. Give away or sell useful leftover items, such as construction materials. Post these items on social media and other sites like Craiglist and Ebay. Ways To Reduce Kitchen Waste Buy items in bulk to reduce packaging waste. You can also save money by splitting bulk items with friends and neighbors. Practice mindful eating and plan meals carefully to minimize food waste. Use up ingredients before they spoil, and incorporate leftovers into new dishes. Support local farmers by purchasing produce from local farmers' markets or joining a community-supported agriculture (CSA) program to reduce packing waste and the environmental impact of food transportation. Create a weekly meal plan to avoid overbuying. Make a shopping list based on your planned meals. Check your refrigerator, freezer, and pantry before shopping to prevent purchasing items you already have. Buy only what you expect to use to reduce the chances of food going to waste. Cook the right amount of food to prevent leftovers from ending up in the trash. Get creative with leftovers. Transform them into new meals or freeze them for later consumption. Repurpose food scraps. Vegetable peels, stems, and other scraps can be used to make flavorful stocks or broths, and spent coffee grounds can also be reused. Pickle, dry, can, ferment, freeze, or cure perishable food you buy in bulk to extend its shelf life. Designate a “use it up” shelf in your fridge and pantry for foods that need to be consumed soon. Prioritize using these items to prevent them from going to waste. Use reusable containers for storing food, including leftovers and snacks, to reduce reliance on disposable packaging. Make your own bread and tortillas to reduce packaging waste from store-bought products. Use beeswax wraps instead of plastic wraps for food storage. Brew loose-leaf tea instead of using tea bags to reduce waste or compost used tea bags. Make your own yogurt to avoid disposable plastic containers. Use a popcorn maker instead of single-use microwave popcorn bags. Utilize food scraps for DIY beauty products, including leftover fruit peels, coffee grounds, and other natural ingredients. You can create homemade skincare products like scrubs and masks. Ways To Reduce Trash from Personal Care and Hygiene Use a biodegradable bamboo toothbrush instead of a plastic one. Use a reusable razor instead of disposable ones. Use reusable sponges or rags instead of disposable paper towels when cleaning. If you do use paper towels, compost them when possible. Make your own personal care products, including deodorant and skincare products, to reduce packaging waste. Use reusable silicone baking mats instead of parchment paper or foil. Save soap bits to make a new bar of soap from the leftovers. Grow medicinal herbs at home and learn to make herbal teas, tinctures, and salves, reducing reliance on packaged over-the-counter pharmaceuticals. Reducing Waste in Landscaping and Gardening Opt for natural pest control methods like companion planting (carrots love tomatoes, you know?) to control pests without harmful chemicals and reduce packaging trash from store-bought products. Compost leaves, pine needles, and grass clippings instead of bagging them up and sending them to the landfill. Ways To Support Sustainability and Community Initiatives Host a community composting initiative to collaborate with neighbors to compost organic waste and reduce landfill contributions. Donate or sell usable items you no longer need to extend their life cycle. Host clothing swap parties to exchange clothing items and give them a new life. Participate in local recycling programs to properly dispose of recyclable materials. Start a swap meet to exchange items and reduce waste. Host repair workshops in your community to teach basic repair skills for common household items like clothing, appliances, and electronics. Join a repair café to fix broken items and reduce waste. Start a community seed exchange to share seeds with others to promote biodiversity and reduce packaging waste. Small, Sustainable Steps Can Lead to a Big, Positive Impact Reducing household waste isn't just about environmental responsibility; it's also about embracing a lifestyle that's mindful of our planet's limited resources. By implementing even just a few of the suggestions listed above, we can significantly reduce both the amount of trash our households generate and our ecological footprint. Every action counts, no matter how small it may seem. As we strive to live more sustainably, let's continue to explore innovative ways to minimize waste generation, reuse what we can, and recycle responsibly. Together, we can make a meaningful difference. If you have other suggestions for ways to reduce trash at home—and we welcome out-of-the-box ideas—please add them to the comments below. Thanks!

Coffee grounds are worth their weight in gold! Okay, maybe that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but those leftovers from your daily cuppa (or potta) joe are more valuable than you might think—certainly more than just a trip to the trash bin. While composting coffee grounds is always a great option, there’s another fantastic functional way to use those leftover grounds that will also enhance your winter nights or chilly mornings: coffee ground fire logs. Today, we’ll go through the easy-peasy process of creating these aromatic wonders, transforming what some might see as waste into a source of fragrant warmth and ambiance. Let the repurposing begin! What You’ll Need Leftover coffee grounds: Yes, I know—duh. You’ll need about five times more grounds than you will binder material, so I’d save up at least five cups of grounds before making your first fire log. Sawdust, old newspapers, or used cooking oil: Any of these will serve as the binder for our logs. We have more sawdust these days than the other options, so that’s what we use. A bucket, bin, or large bowl for mixing the ingredients A mold to shape your fire logs, which can be tubes, discs, blocks, etc. In keeping with our reuse and repurpose theme, here are some ideas for molds: Cake pan: You might want to puncture holes in the bottom to let the moisture out. PVC: Cut a PVC pipe to the desired length and drill some holes near the bottom to press out the liquid. You'll need to cap or cover one end so you can pack the fillings in there. Cardboard boxes: Small cardboard boxes can be used as molds or cut larger ones down to the desired size. Plastic containers: Old, cleaned plastic containers, like from yogurt or sour cream, can also be used as molds. Easy Coffee Ground Fire Log Step-by-Steps 1. Drink your brew and save those coffee grounds You can also check with your local coffee shops to see if they want you to do a pickup. Store the grounds in a container in your fridge to prevent mold growth until you have enough for a log. We keep ours in a covered five-gallon bucket in a cool place and have no problem with mold. An important note: Dry the coffee grounds (we use a tray) before placing them in a bucket or other container for storage to prevent molding. 2. Collect Your Binder Save sawdust, old newspaper, or even used cooking oil. 3. Prepare Your Binder Once you have enough grounds and binder, prep your binder of choice Sawdust can be used as a binder by mixing it with a small amount of water to form a paste. The paste can then be mixed with the coffee grounds and shaped into logs. If you use newspaper, you can use it as a binder by soaking it in water for a few hours—a few days is even better—before mixing it with the coffee grounds. The water will help soften the newspaper and make it easier to mix. Cooking oil can be used as a binder, too, although we haven’t tried this ourselves (yet). Straining the oil isn’t necessary, but it’s a good idea to remove any large food particles or debris that might be present. You can use a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth to do this. Apparently, using used cooking oil as a binder shouldn’t make the fire logs smell strange, but if the oil is rancid or has a strong odor, it’s best not to use it (to state the obvious). 4. Mix Your Ingredients In your bucket or large bowl, combine the coffee grounds and binder. You’ll want a ratio of about 1 part binder to 5 parts coffee grounds. 5. Form Your Log Once your mixture is well combined, pack it tightly into your chosen mold and press out as much liquid as possible. The tighter you pack it, the better your log will hold together. To ensure the logs come out of the mold easily, line the inside with a plastic bag or wax paper. If you’re using a PVC pipe, you can lightly grease the inside with cooking oil to prevent the log from sticking. 6. Let It Dry This is the hardest part—waiting! You’ll need to let the log dry completely before you can use it. This can take anywhere from a few days to a week, depending on the size of the log and the humidity in your area. If the log is still damp, it may break apart when you try to remove it from the mold. 7. Remove the Log from the Mold If you’re using a cake pan or plastic container, turn it upside down and gently tap until the log comes out. If you’re using a PVC pipe, push the log out. If the log is stuck, you can carefully use a butter knife or similar tool to loosen the edges and then try again. 8. Enjoy Your Fire Log In your fireplace or stove, put down some crumpled paper or kindling (or both). Then, add your coffee ground fire log on top of the kindling. You can add two or three of the logs, but no more than that because they can make some serious heat. Light the fire using matches or a lighter, and then leave the log for 15 minutes while they ignite. Final Words on Fueling Your Fire with Leftover Coffee Grounds Did you hit the mother load of used coffee grounds and make a whole bunch of fire logs? If so, store those extras in a dry, covered area so they don’t get wet and fall apart. If you don’t have a shed, stack the logs on an old pallet or anything else to keep them off the ground and cover them with a tarp. We store some in a plastic tote bin. As for flue build-up—something I wondered about—coffee-ground logs don’t produce as much soot build-up as traditional wood logs. That said, no matter what you burn, it’s always a good idea to regularly inspect and clean your flue to ensure the safe operation of your fireplace or wood stove. Enjoy those coffee-scented flames! Looking for other ways to reuse and repurpose spent coffee grounds? Here's a list with 11 other ideas.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Zero waste isn’t just a buzzword; it’s a philosophy. It’s about minimizing waste production and doing our part, however small, in trying to reduce our collective human impact on the world we live in. It's basically about more sustainable living. Now, one could argue (and many people do) that nothing is truly "zero" waste, that there's always something that ends up in a landfill or otherwise tossed somewhere along the line in making, selling, and shipping a new product, not to mention the energy consumed and pollution generated. Recycling isn't 100% zero waste, either, of course. True, true. But there are definitely ways to go about manufacturing and consumption that create much less waste than others. So, I prefer not to pick too many nits on the "zero" part. So, instead of buying a new plastic bottle filled with liquid soap each time you run out, you get a solid shampoo or dish soap bar, use it up, and instead of discarding a bottle, you've already shredded and composted the small recycled cardboard box it came in, recycled it again, or used it as a firestarter in the wood stove. Voilà! That’s zero waste in action. Repairing that old mop instead of buying a new one? Yep, that’s part of it, too. The 5 Rs are our secret sauce: refuse, reduce, reuse, recycle, and rot (that last one means compost). So, my fellow sustainable living enthusiast, let’s enjoy this zero-waste adventure together. Whether you’re transitioning to solid soaps or want to give laundry detergent sheets in a cardboard dispenser a try, every small step counts. Zero-Waste Solid Dish Soap We've tried several brands of natural dish soap, reusing the same original container (any old dish will do) and a scrub brush we already had, and have found a favorite: Solid Round Dishwashing Soap from Lora's Beauty. It comes in seven scents and in unscented, too. One bar lasts us for over a month, sometimes as long as six weeks, of daily use. We've tried several brands of solid dish soaps in zero-waste packaging, including the natural soap bars from Simplut via Amazon, which were also good, but we kept buying different ones until we found one we liked enough to call it our favorite and reorder. So, what is it about Lora's product that puts it at the top of our list, you ask? It suds up and cleans really well, including super greasy dishes, pots, and pans, without leaving a residue. The price is better than others we've tried, given how long each bar lasts for us. We order enough each time to get free shipping, too. It smells great, and that goes for all the scents. Like all zero-waste products should, it comes in a small recyclable, burnable, compostable box and a little packing paper. Lora makes these soaps by hand and sources her ingredients from local companies. She buys organic, too. So far, with each order, Lora has sent a little sample of another of her natural, zero-waste soaps, like a piece of a shampoo bar. We like samples. :) We order Lora's dish soap and other zero-waste soap products from her Lora's Beauty Etsy shop. Overall, Etsy is a great place to find similar zero-waste, handmade, natural products from small companies. Zero-Waste Laundry Detergent Sheets Be gone, big bottles and large, drippy plastic dispensers of liquid laundry soap! We have fully embraced the laundry detergent sheet lifestyle, which is much more compact, much less messy, and much less wasteful. It's also economical and travel-friendly. Okay, so we haven't tried multiple brands like we did with the zero-waste dish soaps, but why change when we're very satisfied with the one we have? And we've had this 80-count box of CLEARALIF laundry detergent sheets since we ordered it nearly a year ago. (Each sheet is perforated, so you can use half a sheet per load.) Besides the zero-waste-friendly packaging you see here, we also like: How well these clean our clothes, which is pretty important in a laundry soap The very mild scent That they have no skin-irritating ingredients That each sheet is pre-cut and pre-measured, meaning no more measuring cup needed That they're compact, so they take up little space in our small laundry room That they're compact (again) and easily carried, including being airplane-friendly if we want to pack a few for doing laundry on a trip You can order these in single 80-count boxes or multi-packs of two or three and save a bit per box that way. Zero-Waste Shampoo and Hair Conditioner Bars When you've been using liquid shampoo and conditioner in plastic bottles for decades, solid hair care products that come in cardboard boxes take a little getting used to, but now I'd never go back. (My husband is bald, so I'm just speaking for myself here.) Since switching over to zero-waste hair care, I've tried several brands, including ANIHANA's Grapefruit & Chamomile Shampoo and Grapefruit & Lime Conditioner Bars, which I liked, and products from other zero-waste companies. While some of the shampoos have been sudsier than others and some of the conditioners... well, more conditioning, all have been anywhere from good to great. But I've settled on EcoRoots Solid Shampoo Bars (I kept typing "bras," but that's for another post) and their Zero-Waste Conditioner Bars as my favorites so far. In addition to how well the shampoo suds up and the conditioner works on my curly, tangly mess of hair, I also like: The price, considering how long these last, which is at least three months each for me The scents and number of options That they're handmade with plant extracts and natural essential oils That they're silicon-, palm oil-, and paraben-free (I had to look up paraben, too; they're chemicals often used in cosmetics.) Like many zero-waste products, solid shampoos and conditioners are still hard to find locally, if at all, where we live, so I continue to order them online and get enough for free shipping. If I eventually find them locally, maybe even at the farmer's market, I'll buy that way instead. A Final Word on Zero-waste Products and Packaging One of the reasons we prefer these zero-waste soap and cleaning products is their eco-friendly packaging. Unlike plastic, which can take hundreds of years to decompose and often ends up in the oceans, cardboard and paper packaging are more biodegradable and generally take less energy to recycle. So, not only are these products effective at cleaning ourselves and our homes, they also help, at least a little, to clean up our planet. For more of our recommendations under the sustainable living product category, check out Use This, Not That: Durable Reusable Products to Reduce Waste.

Disclaimer: I get a commission for purchases made through some of the links in this post. If you live within the largest ponderosa pine forest in the world, as we do here in northern Arizona, or any other size or type of pine forest, you’ve probably seen those black trash bags bulging with pine needles stacked along neighborhood streets, waiting for bulk trash pick-up. Unfortunately, pine needles are often seen as a nuisance to be raked up and discarded. But they can be a valuable and readily available, not to mention free, resource for gardeners and homeowners. Rather than bagging and sending them to the landfill, there are many ways to use and repurpose both brown and fresh pine needles. Here are some of our favorite practical and creative ways to put all those pine needles to work, from mulching to making tea. Use Pine Needles as Mulch Pine needles, also known as pine straw, form a great mat of garden mulch that won’t blow away—even in the big winds we get out here. Simply spread a layer of needles around the base of your plants. Pine straw decomposes slowly, providing a long-lasting mulch that will suppress weeds while allowing water through and reducing evaporation. When it comes to using pine needles as mulch, you sometimes see the caveat that pine needles are acidic, so they can lower soil pH, which is beneficial for acid-loving plants like blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons but detrimental to others. However, according to my alma mater, the University of New Hampshire, this is a common gardening myth, and even a two- to three-inch layer of pine needle mulch won’t change the soil pH enough to measure. We’ve found this to be true in our own garden and raised beds, where we mulch everything, from zucchini to strawberries to spinach and Swiss chard, with pine needles and with great results. Compost Pine Needles Pine needles can also be a beneficial addition to your compost pile. They’re considered a composting “brown,” meaning they add carbon to your mix. That said, they’re nutrient-thin, so you’ll want to add plenty of other organic materials. Some composters advise that pine needles should make up no more than 10% of your bin or pile. On the plus side, the water-resistant pine needles also decompose slowly, so they can help to aerate your compost. Mixing them with other composting materials will speed up the decomp process. Breaking the needles into smaller pieces can also help them break down more quickly. Make Pine Needle-Infused Oil Pine needle-infused oil is a simple but versatile product that can be used for a variety of purposes, including polishing furniture and as an herbal salve for treating wounds and dry skin. To make pine needle-infused oil, pack a jar full of fresh or dried pine needles and fill it with vegetable oil. Let the jar sit for two to three weeks, then strain out the needles. To make a salve, add a little coconut oil and beeswax to the pine needle oil until you have a creamy consistency. Use this salve to help heal cuts, scrapes, insect stings, and splinters and moisturize dry and chapped hands. You can also buy handmade pine needle essential oil. This organic fir needle oil is steam-distilled. Use Pine Needles as Livestock Bedding Pine needles can be used as bedding for chickens, goats, and other livestock. They can also help keep the coop or barn smelling fresh. To use pine needles as bedding, simply spread a layer of needles on the floor of the coop or barn. It’s best to mix the needles with other types of bedding, though, like straw or wood shavings, as pine needles are not very absorbent on their own. Use Pine Needles as Kindling Actually, tinder would be the more correct term here. Kindling is bigger than tinder. Pine needles have a lot of resin and are, therefore, highly flammable, making them excellent tinder for firestarting. To use pine needles as tinder, gather a handful of dry needles—green needles won’t take as easily and could even put out the fire—and place them in the center of the fire pit, wood stove, or fireplace. Add small sticks and twigs on top of the needles, then light the needles with a match or lighter. Blow gently on the flame. The needles will ignite quickly and help to get the fire going. Make Pine Needle Tea A tasty and healthy drink (when you use the right varieties of pine, that is), pine needle tea can be made from fresh or dried needles. Pine needles are rich in vitamin C and have been used for centuries to treat scurvy. Pine needle tea has a citrusy flavor—some describe it as “piney,” go figure—and is a great way to use up at least a little of those excess pine tree offerings. That said (and this is important!), learn more about making pine needle tea before you try it yourself because some varieties of pine are safe and beneficial to drink, while others, including the ponderosa pine we have all around us here in northern Arizona, are toxic. Eastern white pine and balsam fir are among the best varieties to use for pine needle tea. To make the tea, rinse about two tablespoons worth of fresh or dry pine needles and put them in a mug. Pour eight ounces of boiling water over the needles and steep for 15 minutes. Strain out the pine needles and sweeten the drink with honey if desired. As with most things, drink pine needle tea in moderation. If you don't have access to the right kinds of pine and want to try this healthy drink, there are lots of organic pine needle tea options on Etsy. Use Pine Needles for Making Cob and Adobe We used a bunch of our pine needle stash this past summer while building our cob oven and making adobe bricks for various projects, including lining our Dutch oven cooking pit. Traditionally, cob and adobe, both building materials composed of clay, sand, and a reinforcing material, are made with straw. But in our case and others’ projects we looked at, pine needles were the reinforcer. And they worked great! In fact, having made cob and adobe with straw in the past, we found the pine needles easier to work with and to mix in, which we did either in a bucket with an old paint mixer for small batches or with our feet for large quantities. Other Creative Ways To Use Pine Needles Around the Home Make Pine Needle Sachets Fill small muslin bags with dried pine needles and place them in your drawers and closets. The pine needle sachets will help repel moths and other insects and leave your clothes smelling fresh at the same time. Create Pine Needle Potpourri Mix dried pine needles with other fragrant herbs and spices like cinnamon and cloves, then add some citrus peel to create a fragrant potpourri. Place the potpourri in a bowl or sachet to add a natural scent to your home. Use Pine Needles as a Natural Dye You can use pine needles to create a natural fabric dye. Simmer pine needles in water for several hours, then strain them out and soak the fabric in the dye for several hours to achieve a light green color. Create Pine Needle Art and Craft Repurpose pine needles to create unique art pieces. Glue the needles onto a canvas or paper to create a landscape or abstract design. You can also use pine needles to make wreaths, garlands, and other decorative crafts. Use Pine Needles as a Natural Air Freshener Place a handful of pine needles in a small muslin bag and hang it in your car or near your air vents at home. Like with the sachets above, the pine needles will help to freshen the air with a natural scent. This is definitely a more sustainable way to do it than buying those disposable spray cans of sometimes overpowering mist. Repurpose Pine Needles for a Sustainable Home and Garden If you didn’t think so before, we hope you’ll now agree that pine needles are a valuable resource that can be used and repurposed in many ways around the home and garden. From composting and mulching to fire-starting and making air fresheners, there are many ways to use pine needles that can benefit both you and the environment. By repurposing pine needles, you can reduce waste and create a more sustainable home and garden. What do you do with your or a friend or neighbor’s pine needles? Let us know in the comments below.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. At a time when our planet is crying out for some extra eco-love, it's high time we all rethink our everyday choices. In this buying guide to reducing waste (and maybe a little guilt at the same time), we’ll suggest some small changes that can collectively make a significant impact. So, say goodbye to the endless stream of disposable products and hello to a smarter, more sustainable lifestyle. How about trading in those single-use coffee filters for reusable ones? That morning brew just got a little bit greener. And who needs disposable AA batteries that end up in landfills when you can power up with rechargeables? Ready for a fresh perspective on cotton balls? There are reusable alternatives available that are kind to your skin and the environment too. Join us on a journey where every choice counts. It's time to use this, not that. Our planet and—because you’ll spend less over time when using and reusing these things at home—your wallet will thank you! A Reusable Products Table of Contents Here’s an idea: Choose from some or all of these categories and put together a basket of useful reusable items for sustainable gift-giving. In the Food Storage & Beverage Department Coffee Filter Alternatives Disposable Coffee Cup Alternatives Tea Bag Alternatives Disposable Plastic Bottle Alternatives Plastic Straw Alternatives Aluminum Foil Alternatives Plastic Wrap Alternatives Plastic Baggie & Freezer Bag Alternatives In the Cleaning Department Paper Towel Alternatives Dryer Sheet Alternatives In the Personal Hygiene & Beauty Department Cotton Ball Alternatives Wet Wipe Alternatives Other Products Disposable AA Battery Alternatives Single-use Plastic Bag Alternatives Party Balloon Alternatives In the Food Storage & Beverage Department Coffee Filter Alternatives Instead of tossing a paper filter every time you brew, use and reuse one of these instead—and repurpose those used coffee grounds while you’re at it. Our Top Pick - GoldTone Reusable 8-12 Cup Basket Coffee Filters are designed to fit various coffee makers and brewers and replace paper coffee filters. They’re BPA-free and easy to clean. We’ve used ours for years. Reusable K Cups Coffee Filter Pods come in packs of three and four. These inexpensive pods are compatible with Keurig 2.0 and 1.0 coffee makers. Just dump out the used grounds into your designated container or compost, rinse, and repeat. Coffeesock The Original Reusable 100% Organic Cotton Coffee Filters are designed to fit 3-6 and 6-13 cup coffee makers. This pack of two is made of sustainably sourced, 100% organic cotton and can be composted when the filter is eventually worn out. Coffeesocks come in various styles and sizes. Disposable Coffee Cup Alternatives This is one we all know well: Instead of disposable coffee cups, use and reuse these eco-friendly alternatives when you stop by your favorite coffee-to-go shop. Obviously, there are bazillions of options out there, but here are a few functionally stylish suggestions to narrow things down a bit: Our Top Pick - KeepCup Reusable Coffee Cups come in both tempered glass and BPA-free plastic, with either a cork or silicone band and lid. They’re lightweight, splash-proof, and designed to fit under most espresso machines. Contigo Autoseal West Loop Stainless Steel Travel Mug is made of stainless steel and has double-wall vacuum insulation that keeps drinks hot for up to 5 hours and cold for up to 12 hours. It has a one-touch auto-seal lid that automatically seals between sips to prevent spills and leaks. This durable, reusable travel-style mug comes in a dozen colors. Ello Jane Ceramic Travel Mugs have a silicone boot as a built-in, non-slip coaster, and a splash-resistant slider lid. They’re both microwave and dishwasher-safe with a comfortable grip. Tea Bag Alternatives Instead of using disposable tea bags, consider using a reusable tea infuser made of stainless steel, glass, or silicone, which can be used for years (decades in our case). They’re also available in a variety of sizes and styles like these: Our Top Pick - Stainless Steel Tea Balls are made of mesh and come in sets of two, with three different sizes. Glass Tea Infusers with cork lids are see-through alternatives that can be used for loose-leaf tea, fruit infusions, organic coffee, cocoa, or flavored water. Silicone Tea Infusers are also food-grade, non-toxic, and easy to clean. Disposable Plastic Bottle Alternatives This is a well-known no-brainer, too, but it’s worth repeating. Instead of single-use plastic water bottles, use and reuse these eco-friendly alternatives. There are options made of BPA-free plastic, glass, and metal, with varying mouth sizes and cap styles. Reusable bottles make great gifts, too. Here are three suggestions: Our Top Pick - Hydro Flask Stainless Steel Water Bottles are popular for a reason. They have a double-wall vacuum insulation that keeps drinks cold for up to 24 hours and hot for up to 12 hours. Here are some of the many colors, shapes, and sizes to choose from. Lifefactory Bottles with Silicone Sleeves and Flip Caps are made of glass with a stylish silicone sleeve for non-slip gripping and to help prevent breakage. The flip cap is leak-proof, and the handle makes for easy carrying. A variety of colors, designs, and sizes are available for this brand. Nalgene 32-ounce Wide Mouth Tritan Bottles are popular with hikers for a reason. This durable brand makes its bottles out of BPA-free Tritan plastic with a loop-top cap that can be clipped to a backpack or gym bag. I prefer the wide mouth for easy cleaning and also to fit various types of water filters and purifiers. Someone gave me one of these Glow-in-the-Dark Nalgenes, partially made of recycled plastic, that helps me find my way back to my tent at night. Plastic Straw Alternatives Estimates suggest that 500 million plastic straws are thrown away daily (!) in the United States, including clear plastic straws, bendy straws, straws on juice boxes, cocktail straws, and plastic drink stirrers. Every. Day. We can help bring that number down. Instead of single-use, use-and-toss plastic straws, use and reuse one of these stainless steel, glass, or silicone straws instead. Our Top Pick - ALINK Stainless Steel Straws come with removable silicon tips to protect lips and teeth. This inexpensive set of 8 includes four straight and four bent straws and comes with cleaning brushes and a carrying case. Glass Straws,14-Pack Drinking Straws include six straight and six bent straws. They’re shatter-resistant and come with two cleaning brushes. Bent Reusable Silicone Straws (Set Of 10) And Cleaning Brush are flexible, long, and come in a variety of colors. They’re compatible with 20 and 32-ounce tumblers and smoothie cups. Aluminum Foil Alternatives Instead of tossing foil every time you’ve used it to line a baking sheet, cover a pan, wrap food, etc., use and reuse one of these instead. Our Top Pick - Vasdoo Reusable Aluminum Foil Stand-up Food Pouch Bags come in an affordable pack of 50 and are available in three sizes. These bags are sturdy, have a strong seal, and, like baggies, have a transparent window to view the contents. Bee’s Wrap Assorted Reusable Beeswax Food Wraps are made of organic cotton, beeswax, jojoba oil, and tree resin and are compostable. This reusable pack of three is a great alternative to foil and plastic wrap. Silicone Baking Mats are non-stick, dishwasher-safe, and a great reusable alternative to aluminum foil when—you got it—baking. Plastic Wrap Alternatives Instead of using and discarding a new piece of plastic wrap every time you need it, use these greener alternatives instead. Our Top Pick - TCOTBE Reusable Elastic Food Bowl Storage Covers come in an inexpensive 60-piece set with three translucent, stretchable sizes. These BPA-free bowl covers can used with your microwave bowl hugger or as a lid for freezer food storage, among many other uses … and re-uses. Eco-Bags Products Organic Cotton Lunch Bag is a great alternative to plastic wrap when packing lunch. It’s machine washable and has a velcro closure. Akeeko Assorted Reusable Beeswax Food Wraps are similar to the Bee’s Wrap product above under aluminum foil alternatives. Also made of organic cotton, beeswax, jojoba oil, and tree resin, you use the warmth of your hands to soften the wrap and mold it over a container or piece of food. Wash it in cool water with mild soap and air dry. Silicone Stretch Lids are another great alternative to plastic wrap when covering bowls and containers. They’re stretchy, reusable, and dishwasher-safe. Plastic Baggie and Freezer Bag Alternatives Instead of one-and-done baggies, these alternatives can be used over and over again to store food, snacks, and other small items, and they’re dishwasher-safe too. (That said, we wash and re-use regular Ziplocs too.) Our Top Pick - Qinline Reusable Food Storage Bags come in an affordable set of 24, with eight BPA-free, one-gallon bags, eight leak-proof sandwich bags, and eight food-grade snack bags. Bags have double closures and are freezer-safe. Ziploc Endurables Reusable Silicone Bags can be used in the freezer, oven, and microwave, and they’re dishwasher-safe too. The Cool Grab Tabs allow for easy handling after heating, and a secure seal helps prevent spills. These durable bags come in large, medium, and small sizes and variety packs. Zip Top Reusable 100% Silicone Food Storage Bags are made of 100% platinum silicone and are dishwasher-safe. You can purchase them as a set or individually. These durable bags are pricier than other options, but use them over and over again for long enough, and you’ll eventually surpass the cost of creating trash. In the Cleaning Department Paper Towel Alternatives Instead of tossing paper towels and continuously buying those increasingly pricey multi-packs, use and reuse these instead: Our Top Pick - Qinline Reusable Food Storage Bags come in an affordable set of 24, with eight BPA-free, one-gallon bags, eight leak-proof sandwich bags, and eight food-grade snack bags. Bags have double closures and are freezer-safe. HOMEXCEL Microfiber Cleaning Cloths are the go-to reusable, all-purpose cleaning tool in our house. They’re super durable yet soft, lint-free, and inexpensive. We stash a pile in almost every room in the house and in the workshop too. Swedish Dishcloth Cellulose Sponge Cloths are made of natural cellulose and cotton. This affordable pack of 10 sponge cloths is a great alternative to paper towels. Not only are they reusable (“hundreds of times”), but they’re also biodegradable once you do want to dispose of them, so you can toss them in the compost bin. EcoSoul Reusable “Paper” Towels, which come in a pack of 12, are actually made of absorbent cotton flannel and are machine washable. Dryer Sheet Alternatives Instead of dryer sheets, which are unnecessary single-use items often made of synthetic, non-biodegradable material, use and reuse one of these instead: Our Top Pick - Wool Dryer Balls Organic XL 6-Pack by OHOCO are a great alternative to disposable dryer sheets. They’re made of 100% New Zealand wool and are chemical-free. SnugPad Wool Dryer Balls XL Size are another great reusable alternative, also made of 100% New Zealand wool and chemical-free. Purecosheet Reusable Dryer Sheets last for hundreds of loads, are chemical-, perfume- and dye-free, vegan, and hypoallergenic too. In the Personal Hygiene & Beauty Department Cotton Ball Alternatives Usually a one-and-done item, cotton balls are another disposable product for which there are plenty of reusable alternatives, including the simple, multipurpose washcloth. Here are some others: Our Top Pick - Reusable cotton rounds can be used for a variety of things, like removing makeup, applying toner, cleaning your face, and more. LastSwab is a reusable cotton swab that can be used to clean your ears, apply makeup, or touch up your nails. It’s made of easy-to-clean silicone and comes with a carrying case. Greenzla Reusable Pads come in a pack of 20 with a storage box and mesh laundry bag. These two-sided pads are soft and absorbent. Wet Wipe Alternatives Reusable wet wipes are available in the market. They're often OEKO-TEX certified, meaning they’ve been confirmed chemical-free. Here are a few good options: Our Top Pick - FAMOPLY Reusable Flannel Cloth Baby Wipes are soft, durable, super absorbent, and hypoallergenic. This pack of 54 comes with a dispenser and a laundry bag. Babygoal Washable, Reusable Baby Cloth Wipes are made of two layers of 80% bamboo viscose and 20% polyester for maximum absorbency. Or, if you don’t want to wash and reuse wet wipe alternatives, these Compostable, Plant-Based Baby Wipes from The Honest Company are a great, eco-friendly, and dermatologist-tested option that’s been verified by the Environmental Working Group (EWG). Other Products Disposable AA Battery Alternatives Why focus on AA here? Because they’re the most commonly used battery size used around the home. So, instead of replacing them whenever they run out of juice and tossing this hazardous waste, use and reuse (and reuse, etc.) one of these instead: Our Top Pick - Pale Blue USB-Rechargeable Lithium-ion AA Batteries charge much faster than most other rechargeable batteries, and these use a 4-in-1 USB-A to USB-C charging cable with LED indicators. This is the kind we prefer, and the USB charging makes it easy for traveling, too. Amazon Basics Rechargeable AA Batteries come in packs of 8-24. They’re made of nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) and have a capacity of 2000mAh. They come pre-charged and can be recharged up to 1000 times. The charger is sold separately, but if you already have one, it should work with these batteries. Panasonic Eneloop Pro Rechargeable AA Batteries are also made of nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) and have a capacity of 2550mAh. They’re pre-charged and can be recharged up to 500 times. Single-use Plastic Bag Alternatives We all know about reusable shopping bags, which are often available right in the checkout line. And many of us already have more than enough. But just in case you’re on the lookout for some durable ones, maybe to use as reusable gift bags for the gift-ee, here are a few good green options. Our Top Pick - BeeGreen Reusable Grocery Bags are a popular alternative to plastic shopping bags that come in tons of colors, patterns, and counts. They’re made of durable but lightweight ripstop nylon and are machine washable. Another nice feature is that each bag is equipped with an integrated square pouch, so you can stuff it in, and it fits right in your pocket or purse until you need it. Earthwise Reusable Grocery Bags are made of 80-gram non-woven polypropylene with recycled cardboard walls for a rigid structure when opened. This is a pack of three, but you can get these bags in other counts, colors, and patterns. Reusable Canvas Bags like these with interior compartments (great for glass bottles) and side pockets are spacious, sturdy, and made to last. These quality bags have an 80-pound load capacity and two handle lengths. Party Balloon Alternatives Balloons, especially mylar ones, are made from materials that take a very (very, etc.) long time to decompose. Even latex balloons marketed as "biodegradable" can take up to four years to break down, and in seawater, they deteriorate even slower. So instead of using those types of balloons, which are also harmful to wildlife, use and reuse one or more of these: Our Top Pick - Paper Lanterns are easy to inflate, and if you take good care of them, you can reuse them over and over. They come in many different shapes and colors and can be illuminated too. To hang them, tie a bit of thread to an uncoiled paper clip and insert it in the hole. Reusable Water Soaker Balls are a great alternative to water balloons that can be used for outdoor games and activities. Reusable Party Pom-pom Balls are a great alternative to party balloons. They come in many different colors, sizes, and styles to match any theme. Do you have suggestions for other types of disposable products that have reusable, more sustainable alternatives? Please let us know your ideas and suggestions in the comments below.