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Disclaimer: I get a commission for purchases made through some of the links in this post. Here in the high desert of northern Arizona, rain is not as frequent a visitor as it is in other parts of the country, making every drop a precious resource. At our off-grid home, we've set things up to collect the often sporadic rainfall to meet our home's daily and annual water needs. Join me as I walk you through building a potable rainwater harvesting system and how you can replicate and modify it for your own home. Speaking of raindrops and codes, our county has recognized the value and increasing popularity of rainwater harvesting by implementing a dedicated building code. What you'll see here complies with those guidelines, but you'll want to check with your own local building department to see if they have a rainwater harvesting code of their own, especially if you're integrating this type of system in new construction and as your primary (or only) water supply. Calculating Rainwater Collection Potential First things first, decide on how much storage capacity you need based on how much liquid gold you estimate you can collect from the sky where you live. The magic numbers come from the square footage (the area) of the roof serviced by your gutter system and the annual precipitation—rain and snow—that falls on that roof. To simplify this calculation, you can turn to various rainwater harvesting calculators available online, including this one courtesy of WaterCache. For our rainwater collection, we have two main roof areas, on the house and the workshop, with six-inch seamless gutters all around, totaling about 3,000 square feet. Inputting that figure into the rainwater harvesting calculator, it comes up with 1,869 gallons per inch of rain that our downspouts send into three interconnected potable water tanks. That said, we don't often get a full inch of rain from a single storm, so inputting the average annual rainfall for our area unveils the potential liquid bounty we could amass in a year. Where we live, between Williams, Arizona, and the Grand Canyon, the current annual average is 22 inches of rain. Add to that an average of 65 inches of snow, which is equivalent to approximately 6.5 inches of water (thank you, NASA, for the 10-to-1 snow-to-liquid ratio). At a grand total of 28.5 inches of precip per year, with our roof coverage, that's a whopping 52,332 gallons we might collect! However, given the nature of Mother Nature, tempering expectations is crucial. Averages are just that, and we've gotten less than that average—sometimes much less—for the past few years. Yet, armed with our own historical average water usage of 1,500 gallons per month, or 18,000 gallons annually, a figure we got from our less conservation-minded water bills of yesteryears, we know we could comfortably subsist on less than half of that 52,000-gallon figure. If you want to look up the figures for your own area, USClimateData provides data on average annual rain and snowfall. And on the practical side, measuring rainfall need not be an elaborate affair. A simple, inexpensive rain gauge, like the one we use, is an easy way to compile your own numbers over time. Each time it rains (or snows), we see how much we get, put the number in the rainwater calculator, and record it in our dedicated notebook. A Note on Snow and Water Collection Potential Keep in mind that if the snow just gets blown off your roof, like it often does here, or it doesn't sit up there long enough to melt into your collection system, it basically won't count, right? We recommend putting snow breaks on your roof, not only to protect your gutters from heavy snow and ice but also to help prevent the snow and ice from sliding off, to instead melt beneath or through the guards and into your collection system. There are different types of snow breaks. We used and installed these commercial snow guards (pictured below) on our workshop, and our roofer put up breaks similar to this one on our house. Deciding on Rainwater Storage Capacity How much rainwater tank capacity is too little, and how much is too much? That's tough to answer because, for one thing, you're continuously using the water you collect, drawing down your tank(s). But if you can't collect and store it all when it comes down, you'll obviously lose some of that potential. And, while you don't need enough storage capacity for an entire year's water consumption, neither do you want your tank(s) frequently overflowing—especially if most of the rain happens (or snow melts) during one season or within a few months of the year as it does here during the monsoon. While adding more storage capacity or switching to a larger cistern at a later date is an option, that would cost more and add logistical issues compared to installing all the storage you'll need at once. Based on our historical usage, our collection potential calculations, and some neighbors' experiences with rainwater harvesting, we decided on a system with three 5,000-gallon cisterns plus two 275-gallon cubes. We also added a series of 50-gallon overflow barrels, especially for outdoor use in the garden, cleaning, and more. Just before the 2022 monsoon season started, we had the gutters installed on our newly constructed house. It rained the next day for the first time in about two months. One month later, all three of our tanks, including the one by the workshop, the cubes, and the overflow barrels were full. Needless to say, now we wish we had more storage! Equalizing a Multi-Tank Rainwater System When the architect drew up our building plans, including the rainwater harvesting system, he explained the need to equalize our tanks, meaning that once in place, the overflows should all be at the same elevation. So we did a little experiment in our kitchen to prove to ourselves that what he said was true. (Not that we doubted him—he has a similar system.) I don't have a picture of that experiment, but we took three plastic bottles (ours were the same size, but you can do this with different-sized bottles) and connected them near the bottom with snuggly fitted straws. This mimicked how our real tanks would be connected by PVC pipe between their outflows, located inches above the base. We then slowly poured water into one of the bottles and watched how it moved from that bottle, through the straw to the second and into the third, until the water level had equalized among the three. Next, we put a block under one bottle to raise it and repeated the process. The result: the elevated bottle ended up with less water than the other two once the three bottles had equalized. So, in real life, if your tanks are connected, but their overflows are at different elevations, one will overflow before the others fill completely. That's why it's important that the overflows are all at the same elevation if you have multiple tanks, whether they're the same size or dimensions or not. This means you may have to use a transit or another tool or method to get the tanks as close to level, both on or in the ground and with each other, as possible. This is made all the more tricky if your tanks are spread out at different locations around your home, the ground is sloped (even a little), or both. If you're required by code, as we are, or by necessity to partially bury your tanks, you'll probably need to do so at different depths in order to make them all level at the overflow. Even if the area around your home appears flat, there's often at least some difference that can make a difference to your rainwater harvesting system. And, of course, the more the slope between tanks, the bigger the difference in how much digging you'll need to do. A Note on Burying Water Tanks If you want to completely bury a rainwater cistern, you'll need one specifically designed for that purpose. The polyethylene tanks we have are not designed to be buried. In fact, the manufacturers of these tanks suggest you don't bury them at all—but if you do, do not bury them more than halfway up the straight sides. There are reinforced tanks available that can be buried deeper, so be sure you're getting the right kind of cistern for your situation. Installing Underground Water Pipes Once our three cisterns were partially buried to a minimum depth of 31 inches per county code and equalized, it was time to find a backhoe operator to dig trenches—about 150 feet of them—for the PVC pipe that would connect the tanks and bring the water into the house. We also installed a shut-off valve on each tank's outflow below grade so we'd always be able to isolate any one of them for things like cleaning, repair, water management, and so forth. We placed a vertical access tube around each valve so that, once the tanks were backfilled, the shut-offs would still be... well, accessible to open or close it, just as you would use a water key to shut off a municipal water supply. The PVC pipes pictured here connect three polyethylene tanks, one of the workshop and two others on either end of the house, coming together to then enter the house below grade. We air-tested the system per county code before we backfilled the water pipe trenches. For a non-pressurized system like ours, we tested it to 30 psi, making sure it held the air for at least 15 minutes. It actually held at that level for days. Adding Screens and First Flush Diverters It's not only required by our county code in our case, but it's also a good idea to screen the rainwater as it makes its way from the roof to your tanks. A first flush, also called a roof washer, is a simple device that removes the initial flow of water in a potable rainwater collection system. The first pass of stormwater washes your roof of all the sediment and other "stuff" that's built up since the last time it rained or snowed so that cleaner water goes into your tanks and then into your house. With a first flush, the water heading from the gutter into the downspout first passes through a "leaf eater," which is a screen that catches the bigger things, like leaves or pine needles, bugs, a field mouse dropped by a passing bird (happened to us, anyway), or whatever else might end up on your roof. After passing through the screen, the water drops into the first flush downpipe. As the downpipe fills, a ball inside rises. Once it reaches the top of the vertical pipe, the water then goes into the pipe that continues to your tank. A drip valve at the bottom of the first flush downpipe slowly releases the diverted water (which you can collect for other uses, too). While now required by code in our county and others, not everyone agrees that first flush rainwater diverters are such a good idea, and we know some folks end up removing them down the line. Here's a good article about the pros and cons of first flush systems: To First Flush or Not to First Flush. A Note on Optional Gutter Guards In addition to the leaf eaters, we added these simple gutter guards at the top of our downspouts. Why? Well, for one, we once found that dead mouse I mentioned above in one of our gutters, and we really don't want a mouse carcass going any further into our system. We know the leaf eater would have stopped that mouse, but we decided this inexpensive extra protection wouldn't hurt. It goes without saying, though, if you do have gutter guards or any other screen in your system, it's a good idea to get up there and check them periodically to clean out whatever may have been stopped by the screen so it doesn't dam things up. Filtering and Purifying Rainwater in a Potable System Is it really necessary to filter and purify rainwater, especially if it's already been through a first flush or roof washer system? According to the county where we live, it is, and we agree. After all, we do get bird poop on the roof, and other goodies float around in the air and get mixed up in rain and snow, so may as well not drink it. So, we purchased a 10-gallon-per-minute (GPM) Pulsar Quantum Disinfection System, which requires no electricity, and a BBF Series 2 Whole House Filtration System with a 5-micron pleated filter and carbon block filter from US Water Systems (shown below). When the water enters the house, it's drawn through the pump, located in a sump," a recessed part of the floor below the level of the foundation. We use a Grundfos Scala2 pump. Then the water goes through the filter and disinfection unit before moving on to an on-demand water heater and the rest of the house. In the photo above, you can see we have (red) shut-off valves before and after the (blue) filter and (black) disinfection units. These shut-offs are required by code and are also necessary to turn the water off when we need to change the cartridges in either unit, which for us is every one or two years. Testing Your Potable Rainwater Supply Whether it's required where you live or not, we think it's a good idea to have your water tested. Our county building code does require a water quality test, so we had one done through a local laboratory to present to the inspector once the whole system was in place. While the code doesn't specify what exactly should be tested for, we requested a bacteria test and another for zinc. Zinc is present in metal roofs, particularly in galvanized metal, which ours is not, but we wanted to show that to the inspector. The water test cost us $25. We passed with an "A" on all counts. Adding and Raising Overflows Once our system was completed and inspected and the tanks started filling, we directed any overflow into a series of smaller barrels and cubes for use in our raised beds, for watering some fruit and nut trees, sharing with the birds and other local wildlife, and so forth. And we've had plenty of overflow water since we added those barrels and cubes. As you can see in the photo below, a pipe from the bulkhead sends any overflow away from the tank (rather than letting the water shoot out or run down the side) and into a 50-gallon rainwater barrel, which itself has an overflow with a pipe to another tank. There's a spigot near the bottom of each barrel, so we can easily use that bonus water from there. The overflow pipe from the cistern is raised a little to allow the tank to fill to the actual 5,000-gallon line and beyond. A Satisfying Part of Sustainable Living: Using a Potable Rainwater Harvesting System In an area where the word "drought" is often part of the local lexicon. it feels good to get the water we need for our home and garden directly from the sky, even during extended dry stretches. It's a fact that the upfront cost of installing a potable rainwater collection system can be significant—with our three large polyethylene cisterns, seamless gutters and first flush diverters, 150+ feet of underground pipe, filtration and disinfection system, and overflows, ours cost about $18,000 in 2021/22—but it's nice to no longer pay for municipal water, which isn't available where we now live, or for hauling or delivery, not to mention eliminate the fuel involved in the latter. And living a more self-sufficient, sustainable lifestyle simply feels good, too. Do you plan to install a potable rainwater harvesting system or already have one? Do you have any questions about rainwater collection? Let us know in the comments below.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Creative & Functional Wood Pallet Projects for a More Sustainable Home & Garden 190 million. That’s how many pallets are estimated to end up in U.S. landfills each year while over 500 million new ones are manufactured.  That’s a lot of useful lumber and a lot of unnecessary waste. So, today, we're diving into the world of reusable wooden pallets—those humble, versatile platforms that hold immense potential for creative minds and thrifty, sustainable-living souls alike. If you've got an old pallet lying around—so many of us do—maybe from a shipment of paver bricks, a new washing machine, or a million other things moved around on the 1.8 billion pallets used annually in the U.S., or if you’re considering snagging some for free, you've come to the right place. These simple structures can transform into myriad functional and beautifully cool items. And if you’re relatively handy and a little ambitious, pallets can even form the basis of a profitable new side hustle. That said, here’s our list of 50 practical and decorative ideas for reusing, repurposing, and upcycling those retired, unburdened pallets. Ideas and plans abound for any one of these projects, so rather than giving you a how-to for each and every one, this list is more to get your (and our) creative, pallet-repurposing juices flowing, to decide what to make with that stack of pallets you just scored—like a bunch of blank canvases. 50 DIY Pallet Projects While most of these projects can be pulled off with whole or partial pallets, taking them apart and reusing the lumber is always an option. So, at the end of this page, you can pop over to some tips on how to take apart a pallet—hopefully without breaking it—and prep that old wood for a future metamorphosis into something wonderfully repurposed or upcycled. We'll also share some suggestions for where to find free pallets. A Pallet Furniture Paradise Pallet Coffee Table: Stack a few pallets, add some wheels, and voila! You have a trendy, rustic place to set your movie snacks, beverages, and whatnots. There are SO many ways and styles to make coffee tables out of pallets. Outdoor Lounge: Nail or screw a few pallets together, toss on some cushions, and you've got an outdoor lounge or sectional that costs a lot less than one from Home Depot, etc. Pallet Sofa: Much like the outdoor lounge, stack and secure pallets vertically to create a comfortable sofa. Add cushions and upholstery for a seating option that’s sure to be different than anything the Joneses have. Pallet Bed Frame: Connect pallets to form a sturdy bed frame. You can even leave spaces between the pallets for built-in storage or add lights underneath for a unique, glowing touch. Pallet Dining Table: Having an extra-large dinner party? Secure several pallets together to create a group-sized dining table. Sand the surface for a smooth finish, or add a tabletop. Want something more permanent? Add a glass top for a nice combination of rustic and refined. Pallet Bar: Arrange pallets to your desired height, add a countertop, and you've got yourself a stylish basement or person-cave bar. Customize it further by adding shelves for glassware and bottles. There are endless pallet bar ideas and styles out there. Pallet Desk: There are so many ways to pull off a pallet desk. On the simple side, stack a few pallets horizontally and place a flat surface on top to create a functional workspace. Add compartments or drawers for storage. Pallet Pet Bed: Create a cozy bed for your fuzzy family member by stacking pallets and adding a soft cushion. Paint, stain, or stencil it to match your home decor. Storage Solutions a la Pallets Pallet Bookshelves: Stacked pallets against the wall make excellent shelves. As with any pallet project, you can paint or varnish them for a polished look. Pallet Wine Rack:  Secure pallet pieces at an angle to hold wine bottles. Stylish and practical! Here’s a small, wall-mounted wine and wine glass rack made of pallet wood that you can make yourself. Shoe Organizer: Mount a pallet horizontally on your wall, and you have instant shoe storage. Add hooks for keys and accessories. Pallet Wardrobe Organizer: Hang pallets and add hooks, shelves, and small baskets to create a wardrobe organizer for accessories, bags, and scarves. Pallet Jewelry Display: Nail small pallet pieces together vertically and horizontally to create a jewelry display. Add hooks, knobs, and small shelves to hang and showcase your collection. Pallet Bathroom Storage: Mount pallets on the bathroom wall to create shelves for towels, toiletries, and other bathroom essentials. You can also incorporate hooks for hanging bathrobes or shower caddies. Pallet Garage Shelving: Use pallets to create sturdy and affordable garage shelving. Stack pallets horizontally and add wooden planks on top to create shelves for organizing tools, paint cans, and other garage-y items. Pallet Tool Rack: Mount pallets on the wall of your garage or workshop to store tools. Customize the slots to hold hammers, wrenches, screwdrivers, and more for easy access. Craft & Art Supplies Organizer: Hang a pallet on the wall and attach hooks, small bins, and jars for easy, organized access to all your crafting, sewing, or art supplies. Pallet Projects for Home Decor Photo Frames: Disassemble pallets and use the wood to create rustic photo frames. Mirror Frame:  Frame a mirror, large or small, with pallet wood to add a touch of rustic elegance to your bathroom, bedroom, or any other room. Coat Rack:  Attach hooks or knobs to a pallet for a charming and functional rack for coats and jackets, scarves, dog leashes, and anything else you want to hang and grab on your way out the door. Pallet Wood Wall: Create an accent wall by affixing pallet wood planks horizontally or vertically. You can sand and finish the wood to bring out its natural beauty. People spend money on this rustic-chic look, but you can do it yourself and for much less cost with a little time and elbow grease. Floating Shelves: Cut pallet wood into smaller pieces and attach them to the wall as floating shelves for decorative items, books, or small indoor plants—you name it. Pallet Clock: Use pallet wood to craft a unique wall clock. Cut the wood into a circular or other creative shape, add clock hands and a mechanism, and you have a rustic timepiece. Wall Art: Cut pallet wood into various shapes and sizes, then assemble them to create cool wall art. You can leave the wood natural or paint it in vibrant colors to match your decor. Here’s a creative piece of lighted pallet art with a holiday theme to dress up a drab corner. Hanging Planters: Craft hanging planters by suspending pallet wood pieces vertically from ropes or chains. Plant small flowers or herbs in containers attached to the wood, bringing a touch of greenery into your home. Room Divider: Stand pallets vertically and secure them together to form a partition, providing privacy and visual interest in open living spaces. Pallet Headboard: Attach pallets vertically and mount them behind your bed to create a rustic headboard. You can leave the wood as-is for a natural look or paint or stain it. You can also attach reading lamps, framed photos, and other decorative items. Candle Holders: Cut pallet wood into various lengths and assemble them into candle holders for votive or pillar candles to add a cozy and romantic ambiance to your living room or dining area. Palatable Pallets in the Kitchen Kitchen Utensil Holder: Attach pallet slats vertically on a wall, creating pockets to hold kitchen utensils, cutting boards, and even small pots. Herb Garden:  Hang small pots filled with herbs on a pallet mounted on your kitchen wall for fresh ingredients at your cookin’ fingertips. Kitchen Island:  Combine pallets to craft a rustic kitchen island for extra storage and a farmhouse vibe. There are tons of ideas and plans out there, from simple and inexpensive projects like this one to more complex and elegant centerpieces. Pallet with a Purpose in the Garden and Other Outdoor Projects Potting Bench: Elevate your gardening by repurposing a pallet into a potting bench. It's sturdy and functional and keeps your tools organized. Compost Bin: Create a simple compost bin by fastening pallets together—easy access for turning your kitchen and garden scraps into nutrient-rich soil. Vertical Garden: Attach pots to a pallet's slats and hang them vertically. Perfect for growing herbs, flowers, or succulents, even if you're short on space. Recycling Organizer: If you’re like us and have to take your recyclables to town, build an outdoor storage area with separate bins for plastics, metal, etc., to separate and store your recyclables until your next trip to drop them off. Garden Fence: By standing pallets upright and securing them together, you can create a cool fence to enclose your garden or yard. Raised Beds: Stack pallets to your desired height, fill them with soil and plant your favorite flowers, herbs, or vegetables. Swing Chair: Hang a solid pallet swing from a sturdy tree, add a cushion, and you've got a nice spot to relax and ponder your next pallet project. Outdoor Bar: Impress your guests by repurposing a pallet into an outdoor bar (you can serve ice cream, too!). Add a few stools, and you have a stylish and functional space for outdoor entertaining. Tool Shed: Build a compact storage shed using pallets to form the walls and roof, leaving an opening for the entrance. Wood Shed: This one isn’t much of a stretch, but make a lean-to-style pallet shed with one or more sections to stock up firewood for the winter or, if you enjoy outdoor cooking as much as we do, for your cob or brick oven. Pallet Bird Feeders: Repurposing wooden pallets can be for the birds, too. Attract wild birds to your garden or backyard by turning a full or partial pallet into a feeder. Use the slats of the pallet to create trays for holding seed. Nail or screw additional pieces of wood to the bottom of the slats to prevent the seeds from falling through. The Pallet-made Kids' Corner Pallet Playhouse: Let your little ones' imagination run wild by building a pallet playhouse. Add some paint and decorations for a personalized and fun touch. Pallet Toy Storage: Stack pallets to create open-fronted cubbies. These can be used in children's rooms to store toys, books, or art supplies. You can add wheels and paint them in vibrant colors. Pallet Chalkboard: Convert a pallet into a chalkboard by painting one side with chalkboard paint. Hang it on the wall or prop it up like an easel for drawing, doodling, and leaving messages. Pallet Puppet Theater: Convert one or more pallets into a puppet theater by attaching curtains and painting them in vibrant colors. Repurposed Pallets on the Move Bike Rack:  If you're a cycling enthusiast, use pallets to create a space-saving bike rack in your garage or shed. Car Camping Table: Stack a few pallets in your trailer or bed of the truck and convert them into a portable table when you get to camp. It's easy to assemble. Garden Cart or Trailer: Attach wheels to a sturdy pallet, and you have an instant garden cart. Use it to transport plants, soil, tools, or harvested produce around your garden with ease. This mobile cart simplifies your gardening tasks and saves you from multiple trips. Check out this quick and easy pallet trailer project. Pallet Dolly: Need to move heavy items within your home, garage, or workshop? Create a pallet dolly by attaching sturdy casters to the bottom of a pallet. It becomes a versatile tool for moving furniture, boxes, or equipment without straining your back. Countless Ways of Repurposing Wooden Pallets Even these 50 ideas are just the tip of the iceberg. Wooden pallets offer endless possibilities, limited only by your creativity (okay, and some patience and skill, too). So, the next time you spot a discarded pallet, don't just look at it as trash or firewood—see it as a treasure trove of potential waiting to be unlocked. Want to know how to take apart pallets, prep the old pallet wood, and where to find free pallets, too? Here you go… Stay tuned for more in-depth guides on how to bring these ideas to life. Happy reusing, repurposing, upcycling, and saving! Together, we can make our homes greener, cozier, and thriftier, one pallet at a time.

Build it, and they will come. At least, that’s what we hoped. And it worked! In fact, much of our oddly, often trapezoidal-shaped and irregularly sized scrap wood has turned into various avian nesting boxes, from more mainstream styles to funky, free-form, and rather far-fetched. This time, Jeremy decided to make a larger birdhouse to attract some type of northern Arizona owl to help keep the healthy local field mouse and pack rat populations in check. Scrounging a variety of scrap wood pieces, along with some leftover hardware and hinges (and a little help from me), Jer created the following owl abode. As you can see, perfection isn't part of our vocabulary—or skills—but at least one western screech owl doesn't seem to mind. Embracing a sustainable lifestyle goes beyond reducing our carbon footprint; it's also about creating habitats for our wild, winged neighbors. One way to contribute to local biodiversity is by building a scrap wood owl house. In our guide to “creative” avian home building, we'll explore the art of crafting an owl nesting box using reclaimed materials. Let's turn scrap wood into a haven for these nocturnal hunters, promoting ecological balance in our own backyards. Locate a Site for the Owl Box Selecting the right spot is crucial for the success of your owl house. Owls prefer elevated locations with good visibility, so mount your box on a tree or pole—in our case, it was on top of an old railroad tie fence post (that no longer has a fence) only about seven feet tall—ensuring it faces away from prevailing winds. Our winds generally come from the south/southwest, so we placed the opening of the owl house to the north/northwest. A field or meadow or the edge of a wooded area is ideal, providing easy access for owls to hunt. They also like to glide to and from their nesting places, so look for a location that has an unobstructed path to the box opening. Our owl box faces an area that's more open than most of our property, with fewer juniper trees, lots of wild grasses and flowering plants, and plenty of field mice, pack rats, and ground squirrels in residence. Making an Owl House: Materials to Gather Basic carpentry tools and hardware will suffice. Scrap wood: If possible, use untreated, weather-resistant wood. Plywood or cedar scraps work well. We also used a bit of HardieBoard scrap for the roof. Tools: You'll need a saw, hammer and/or screwdriver, drill, hole saw if you have one, and a variety of nails and/or screws—whatever you have lying around. Waterproof paint or sealant, paintbrush: Protect your owl house from the elements by applying a non-toxic sealant, stain, or exterior paint. Hinges and a clasp or screws: Allow easy access for cleaning and replacing nesting material by adding hinges or screws to one side of the box. Nesting material: More on this below. DIY Scrap Wood Owl House 101 This is such an easy project; even Jeremy and I can do it! Owl houses don't need to be anything fancy or cost much of anything to build—just like any other type of birdhouse, they need to be the right size to accommodate the type of owl you hope to house. Design your owl house: Tailor your design to the specific owls in your area. For example, barn owls prefer a simple, open-front design, while screech owls prefer a more enclosed space. Research local owl species to determine the best dimensions and features. (I've added some details for common North American owl species below.) Cut and assemble: Using your chosen scrap wood, cut pieces according to your design (or you can be like us and see what you can build with as few cuts as possible). Drill out a circular hole (sand or smooth as needed) large enough for the species of owl in your area. Assemble the box, ensuring a snug fit to provide insulation. Add a perch: Attach a small perch or “grab bar” below the entrance to help owls land and take off more easily. (That’s what the wood piece below the owl box opening is on ours. We put one on the inside of the box also) Drill ventilation holes: Drill small holes near the top of the box to prevent condensation and maintain a comfortable temperature. Paint or seal: Apply a waterproof sealant or paint to protect the wood and enhance durability. Opt for earthy tones to blend seamlessly with nature. Mount: Securely mount the owl house, ideally 10-20 feet above the ground (although ours is lower), ensuring it remains stable in various weather conditions. That's why ours has extra mountain brackets on the bottom, around the top of the old railroad tie. Add Owl Nesting Material Unlike some other bird species, owls typically don't bring in their own nesting material. They rely on the structure of the nesting site itself, creating a simple "scrape" or depression in the natural substrate within the nesting cavity. So, providing a layer of suitable nesting material inside your owl box can enhance its comfort and appeal. To make your owl box more inviting, you can add a thin layer of soft materials such as: Wood shavings: Add a layer of untreated wood shavings at the bottom of the box. These can mimic the natural environment and offer insulation. Leaves or pine needles: Dry leaves or pine needles can add a touch of the outdoors to the owl box for a more natural feel. Straw, hay, or dry grass: A thin layer of straw or hay can also be used as long as, like other nesting material, it stays dry to prevent mold. Remember to keep the nesting material sparse, as owls prefer a minimalist approach (much like I do). Providing too much material can make the box less appealing to them (yep, mm-hm). Also, avoid using synthetic materials or anything treated with chemicals, as these can be harmful to the owls. Keep an eye on the nesting material during routine checks, replacing it if it becomes soiled or compacted. Types of Nesting Boxes for Common Owls One size and shape doesn't fit all when it comes to owl nesting boxes. There are about 225-250 different species of owl in existence, with about 21 of those in North America. So you'll want to find out which species are common to your area and then build accordingly. Here are some examples of owl species common in the U.S. and the basics of nesting boxes for each: Barn Owl Owl Size: 12.5-16 in. Nesting Box: A simple wooden box approximately 24 inches in height, depth, and width provides enough room for a pair of owls and their young, but you can go even bigger, up to three feet square, if you want. Create an opening about 6 inches above the base of the box. The opening can be square or round with a diameter of about 5-6 inches. Barred Owl Owl Size: 19-22 in. Nesting Box: Barred owls prefer upright nesting boxes with a single hole in the center near the top of the box. This mimics the tree hollows where they usually take up residence. A typical barred owl nest box is about 24 inches tall with a floor area about 13 by 13 inches. The entrance hole should be 12 inches from the bottom of the box and have a diameter ranging from 7-10 inches. Great Horned Owl Owl Size: 18-25 in Nesting Box: These large owls like nesting in open boxes or flat platforms instead of cavity-style boxes. The box should be at least 22x22 inches. The entrance should be large enough to allow the owls easy access but small enough to prevent larger predators from entering. It’s recommended that a nest box for a great horned owl be mounted in a hardwood tree or tall post at least 15 feet above the ground. Screech Owl Owl Size: 7-10 inches Nesting Box: Screech owls prefer upright boxes that mimic tree hollows, whether natural cavities or holes abandoned by other birds, like woodpeckers. A typical screech owl box is about 10 inches wide at the floor, 18 inches tall, and 10-14 inches deep. The entrance hole should be around 3 inches in diameter. The International Owl Center has some good information on DIY owl nest boxes for various kinds of owls. Scrap Wood Owl House Dos and Don’ts If owl houses had to be a very specific size, design, or placement, ours wouldn't have worked as intended or so quickly. That said, we did try our best to follow some scrap wood owl house best practices like these: Owl House Dos Face the owl house opening away from prevailing winds. Mount the owl house in or on the edge of an open area or meadow. Make the owl box opening large enough for the species you're hoping to attract. Owl House Don'ts Avoid light pollution. Owls are sensitive to light. Place your owl house away from bright lights, as this can disturb their nocturnal activities. Avoid invasive monitoring. While it's important to monitor your owl box, avoid intrusive checks, especially during nesting season. (We always have a good but inexpensive pair of binoculars on hand to watch wildlife comings and goings.) Excessive disturbances can lead to abandonment of the nesting box. Don't overdo it with nesting material. Just a one-inch layer, at most, of natural material, like leaves or grass, will do. Make and Monitor a Scrap Wood Owl House in Your Own Backyard By repurposing scrap wood, you've not only created a sustainable haven for local owls but also contributed to the delicate balance of your local ecosystem. Watching these amazing and mysterious birds take residence in your own handmade owl house is a rewarding experience, reminding us that even small, imperfect efforts can have a big impact. One fun and non-intrusive way we watch our owl house and other bird homes and wandering wildlife at 36-Acre Wood is with a few strategically placed, easy-to-use game cameras. We recommend the Muddy brand trail camera or the Cuddeback, both of which we use with Pale Blue USB rechargeable batteries.